Top Stories of 2024 #3: Joanne Dickenson DePuy, the Woman Who Helped Change Napa Forever
By Tim Carl
As 2024 comes to a close, we are dedicating the final two weeks to a countdown of the year’s most-read stories. Covering a wide range of local topics, these pieces reflect the varied interests of our readers and offer a moment to look back before turning toward 2025. Join us as we revisit the highlights that shaped the year. Original run date for today’s article was Nov. 30, 2024.
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NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — In May 1976 the wine world was forever changed as Napa Valley emerged onto the global stage in a stunning upset. Yet one of the most essential figures behind this seismic moment remains largely unsung: Joanne Dickenson DePuy. Her legacy is deeply intertwined with the Judgment of Paris — the pivotal event that redefined perceptions of California wine. Her efforts, often overshadowed, were instrumental in setting the stage for Napa Valley’s rise to international acclaim.
DePuy played a key role as a connector, introducing Steven Spurrier, the British wine merchant who organized the tasting, and Patricia Gastaud-Gallagher, the American writer who envisioned showcasing California wines in Paris, to Napa Valley’s emerging wine community. Among her introductions were Chateau Montelena and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, the wineries whose wines would triumph over their French rivals and put Napa Valley on the map.
Beyond this, when the logistics of transporting the wines to Paris threatened to derail the event, DePuy became the linchpin that held everything together. Leveraging her extensive network and her background in organizing wine tours, she navigated the bureaucratic hurdles and ensured that the California wines made it safely to France. Her quiet resolve and determination made it possible for Napa wines to take their place on the international stage.
DePuy’s influence extends far beyond that single event, however. She is a living connection to a time when Napa Valley’s potential was still unrecognized by much of the world, and her work behind the scenes played a critical role in reshaping the global perception of American winemaking.
What makes DePuy’s contributions so remarkable is how often they are overlooked. While the focus has mostly been on the wines and the men who crafted them, her work connecting people, solving logistical challenges and championing Napa’s potential ensured the event’s success. Without her, the Judgment of Paris — and Napa Valley’s meteoric rise — might never have happened.
The Paris Revelation
DePuy’s 1976 wine tour through Bordeaux wasn’t merely an educational journey; it was a pivotal chapter in Napa Valley’s rise to global prominence. Among the attendees were some of Napa’s most influential figures: Jim and Laura Barrett of Chateau Montelena, Andy and Betty Beckstoffer, Rene di Rosa, Louis P. and Liz Martini and Bob and Nonie Travers. (A full list is in Appendix II, below). These pioneers, representing the vanguard of Napa’s evolving wine culture, embarked on the trip to delve more deeply into French winemaking traditions and refine their craft.
One of the most memorable moments of the tour unfolded during a celebratory lunch at Château Lascombes, a historic Margaux estate. DePuy had orchestrated the visit to showcase the pinnacle of French hospitality, pairing exceptional Bordeaux wines with stimulating conversation. The atmosphere was vibrant, but a sudden pause came when a uniformed waiter leaned over to quietly summon Jim Barrett to the phone.
DePuy’s instincts kicked in immediately.
“I walked with Jim to the phone, and I was worried that something had happened to his children,” she said. “This was before cell phones — who even knew where we were?”
Standing nearby, DePuy heard Barrett say into the phone, “Not bad for a kid from the sticks,” before giving her a reassuring thumbs-up. Relieved, she returned to the table, though the significance of his words wouldn’t fully register until Barrett rejoined the group moments later.
When Barrett sat back down, he leaned toward DePuy and quietly explained, “That was George Taber from Time magazine. He told me our chardonnay won in Steven’s tasting, and Stag’s Leap won the red.” Stunned by the revelation, DePuy nodded before seeking out André Tchelistcheff to share the news.
Barrett’s comment, paired with the gravity of the announcement, sent a ripple through the Napa contingent. Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay had been declared the best white wine at a blind tasting in Paris, and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon had outperformed some of Bordeaux’s most revered reds.
For DePuy, the moment was profound. She had been at the heart of this achievement.
“This was more than just a win for two wineries,” DePuy said years later. “It was a recognition of all the hard work, innovation and risk-taking that Napa’s winemakers had been doing for years. It showed the world what we already knew — that Napa could make wines on par with the best anywhere.”
Despite the quiet excitement around the table, the group kept their reactions measured out of respect for their French hosts. Tchelistcheff, ever a voice of wisdom, leaned in and said, “Don’t say a word. We must not let the French know of this just yet.”
But restraint could only last so long. Once the group boarded their bus and left Château Lascombes, the tension broke, replaced by jubilant celebration.
“The moment we turned the corner, everyone erupted in cheers,” DePuy said. “There was this overwhelming sense of pride. We toasted to Mike Grgich, who crafted the Montelena Chardonnay, and Warren Winiarski, the force behind Stag’s Leap. We also toasted André, whose guidance had shaped so many of Napa’s winemakers.”
The “Judgment of Paris” wasn’t merely a competition — it was a pivotal moment that forever altered the trajectory of Napa Valley and California wine. The results dismantled long-held assumptions, proving that quality was not confined by geography.
“This was a defining moment,” DePuy said. “It shifted the perception of what California could achieve, and it brought Napa Valley to the attention of the world.”
Napa Before the Fame
When DePuy moved to Napa Valley in 1951, it was a quiet agricultural region far removed from its current status as a wine tourism mecca. Orchards and dairy farms dotted the landscape, and only a handful of wineries existed.
“We moved to Napa before it was ‘the Napa Valley,’” she said.
Born Joanne Cardiff in Los Angeles in 1927, DePuy was raised in a family that prized education, culture and public service. Her mother, Eileen Cardiff, was the first woman to run for the California State Assembly in 1936, a bold move that influenced her daughter’s own trailblazing spirit. After earning a degree in international relations from UC Berkeley in 1949, DePuy moved to Napa with her husband to raise their three children. Her early years in the valley were filled with discovery.
“I didn’t know much about wine when we first arrived,” she said. “But we started a tasting group with other families, and that’s how I began to learn.”
By the early 1970s DePuy’s children were grown, and she was ready for her “second act.” Combining her passions for travel, wine and tennis, she founded Wine Tours International Inc., and Tennis Limited in 1973. Her vision was to create curated wine and tennis tours led by Napa’s top vintners, bridging the gap between Old World and New World winemaking traditions.
Building Bridges: The Birth of Wine Tours International
To turn her ambitious vision into reality, DePuy knew she needed the endorsement of Napa Valley’s influential wine community. Her ability to foster collaboration quickly became evident as she assembled a board of advisers that included trailblazing figures such as the Chappellets and Jim and Maggie Warren. DePuy also gained the support of Louis P. Martini, then president of the Napa Valley Vintners Association, whose credibility and deep industry knowledge helped legitimize her fledgling enterprise.
However, it was her connection with Tchelistcheff — often called the “dean of American viticulture” — that truly elevated her efforts. Convincing Tchelistcheff, whose wisdom and expertise were unmatched, to lead one of her tours proved challenging. When DePuy first approached him with her idea, he listened attentively but ultimately declined, citing his packed schedule. DePuy’s persistence would soon pay off, however, during a chance encounter at Napa’s Vallerga’s Market.
“We were in the store, and our carts accidentally bumped into each other,” DePuy said, describing the serendipitous moment. André was shopping with his wife, Dorothy, and DePuy seized the opportunity.
“When are you going to lead one of my tours?” she asked, half-joking but wholly determined.
To her astonishment, André replied, “I am ready.”
Later, Dorothy fondly recalled the moment, laughing as she shared André’s reaction once the conversation had ended.
“As we continued shopping, André turned to me and said, ‘Why did you let me do that?’”
This blend of tenacity and charm became a hallmark of DePuy’s approach. She recognized that having not just participants but luminaries like Tchelistcheff involved was critical to the success of her tours. His eventual participation brought unparalleled expertise and prestige to her enterprise, cementing its credibility and attracting attention from Napa and beyond.
Bringing Napa to the World
To prepare for the tour, DePuy undertook extensive planning, visiting France to ensure that every detail was flawless. The itinerary spanned Paris, the Champagne region, Burgundy and Bordeaux, blending private tastings, vineyard tours and meetings with luminaries of the French wine world. The tour wasn’t meant to be merely a journey through iconic wine regions; it was a carefully orchestrated exchange of ideas and traditions, fostering mutual appreciation between the old and new worlds of winemaking.
“André was much loved in France,” DePuy later recalled. “He was greeted like royalty everywhere we went, and his deep knowledge of winemaking elevated every experience for our group.”
DePuy recognized that the tour also served as an opportunity to introduce Napa wines to a broader audience, planting seeds of respect for the region’s emerging excellence.
“I thought bringing wine would really show off what we could achieve,” DePuy said. “I had no idea where it would lead.”
A pivotal moment occurred when DePuy gifted a bottle of Chateau Montelena Chardonnay to Steven Spurrier and Patricia Gastaud-Gallagher in Paris. At the time, Spurrier operated the Académie du Vin, France’s first private wine school, and Gastaud-Gallagher was eager to spotlight California wines in an upcoming tasting.
“Patricia Gallagher and I tasted the wine and found it very good,” Spurrier later wrote. “It made us earmark Montelena for the final selection in the Judgment of Paris.”
This seemingly small gesture would have far-reaching consequences. DePuy’s ability to connect people and showcase Napa’s potential laid the foundation for a historic moment. Her tours transcended simple education, becoming platforms for building relationships, bridging traditions and setting the stage for Napa Valley’s ascension onto the global stage.
The Crisis: Six Days to Paris
A month before the Judgment of Paris, Spurrier and his wife, Bella, traveled to Napa Valley to finalize the wines for the upcoming tasting. DePuy hosted the couple for an intensive tour. Over several days she guided them through visits to wineries, including Chateau Montelena and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, offering Spurrier an up-close look at the quality and potential of California wines.
“It was clear he had a deep appreciation for wine and a willingness to give California a fair chance,” DePuy said.
During this visit, Spurrier made his final selections, identifying the wines that would later shock the world.
But just six days before the historic event, as DePuy prepared to leave with the Tchelistcheff tour group, Spurrier called her in a panic. French customs laws and airline restrictions prevented him from shipping the wines to Paris. Desperate for a solution, Spurrier turned to DePuy.
“Help!” he said over the phone, according to DePuy. “I can’t get the wines to Paris. Can you take them with your group?”
Without hesitation, DePuy agreed, but she had no idea the logistical nightmare that awaited her. Spurrier packed three cases of wine — carefully curated bottles from California’s best wineries — and had them delivered them to DePuy’s home in Napa. The task of transporting the wines fell squarely on her shoulders.
“I had no idea what that hastily made promise would involve,” DePuy said. “French customs, airline regulations and the sheer logistics of getting those cases to Paris seemed almost insurmountable.”
DePuy initially considered asking the vintners on her tour to carry bottles as carry-ons, but she quickly realized this was impractical. Each traveler was already loaded down with their own bags, and the idea of carrying fragile wine bottles — not even their own wines — across multiple airports was fraught with risk.
Determined to find another way, DePuy turned to TWA. She spent hours negotiating with airline officials, and her persistence paid off. TWA agreed to make an exception, allowing the cases to be checked as cargo under special handling instructions.
“It was a huge relief to see those cases being loaded onto the plane,” she said. “But I still felt a knot in my stomach. Anything could go wrong.”
Her fears were partly realized when the group arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport. As DePuy approached the baggage claim area, she caught the unmistakable scent of wine. A quick inspection confirmed her worst fear — a bottle of Freemark Abbey Cabernet had shattered in transit.
“Seeing that case stained with red wine and smelling it in the air, my heart sank,” DePuy said.
At the airport, Spurrier, dressed in his trademark white suit, greeted DePuy with his signature charm and a knowing grin. His relief was evident when she informed him that the wines were safe and ready for the tasting but that one or more might have broken.
When they checked, it turned out only the one bottle had shattered.
“Don’t worry,” Spurrier said. “That’s why I packed two of each!”
The Legacy: Correcting the Record
DePuy’s indispensable role in one of the most consequential events in wine history has often been overlooked, erased or misrepresented. Nowhere was this more apparent than in "Bottle Shock," the 2008 film that dramatized the story of Chateau Montelena’s victory in Paris. While entertaining, the film took extensive liberties with the truth, crafting a narrative so far removed from reality that Jim Barrett, the real-life owner of Chateau Montelena, openly acknowledged its flaws.
At the film’s Napa Valley premiere, held fittingly at Chateau Montelena, DePuy sat among a crowd of vintners, wine enthusiasts and locals eager to relive the historic moment. During the screening, she watched as her contributions — introducing Spurrier to the winning wineries and ensuring the wines reached Paris — were entirely omitted.
When the lights came up, Barrett leaned over to DePuy. His voice carried a mix of admiration and frustration.
“You need to tell the rest of the story,” he said.
The comment stayed with DePuy. While "Bottle Shock" focused on the drama of Chateau Montelena’s victory, it left out the broader context of how the wines even made it to Paris. The film glossed over the collaborative spirit of Napa Valley’s winemakers and ignored the logistical and diplomatic challenges that DePuy had deftly navigated to ensure the tasting could happen at all.
Motivated by the inaccuracies — and by Barrett’s encouragement — DePuy set out to correct the record. In the years following the premiere, she authored "The Rest of the Story," a concise yet authoritative account of the true events surrounding the Judgment of Paris that drew from her firsthand experience and correspondence with Spurrier.
“I didn’t write it for recognition,” DePuy later said. “I wrote it so the real story wouldn’t be lost.”
Her 15-page self-published book was more than a personal endeavor; it was a gift to history. By documenting the behind-the-scenes efforts that made the Judgment of Paris possible, DePuy preserved an essential chapter of Napa Valley’s rise to prominence. For future generations, "The Rest of the Story" ensures that the full story — one of collaboration, persistence and a collective belief in the quality of Napa’s wines — is remembered and celebrated.
The omission of DePuy’s role in "Bottle Shock" is emblematic of a larger pattern in history, where the contributions of individuals, often women, working behind the scenes are overshadowed by those in the spotlight. DePuy’s work may not have involved crafting the wines, but her efforts were no less vital. She was the connector, the problem-solver, and the advocate who refused to let bureaucratic obstacles or logistical challenges derail a historic moment.
In writing "The Rest of the Story," DePuy not only claimed her place in history but also honored the spirit of Napa Valley during its formative years — a collaborative community of innovators, dreamers and pioneers who believed their wines could rival the best in the world.
A Life of Vision and Perseverance
At 97, DePuy remains as vibrant and engaged as ever — a living link to one of the most transformative periods in Napa Valley’s history. Far from retiring to a quiet life, she is a familiar presence at winery openings, community celebrations and special events across the valley. Known for her sharp mind and warm demeanor, she continues to impress those around her with her wit, depth of knowledge and enduring passion for wine.
“She’s terrific — kind, smart, resourceful, humble,” said vintner Violet Grgich. “My dad thought the same and always counted her as a friend. Without her resourcefulness, there would have been no wines for the Paris tasting!”
DePuy’s love of wine is as strong today as it was when she first arrived in Napa in 1951. She still enjoys a glass most evenings, often paired with a selection of cheeses — a ritual that reflects her lifelong appreciation for the culture and community of winemaking. Her ability to recall details from decades past paired with her forward-thinking perspective makes her a vital resource for those looking to understand the roots of Napa’s success.
Her contributions to the Judgment of Paris remain among her most significant achievements, but as Violet Grgich pointed out, recognizing DePuy’s contributions doesn’t mean overlooking others who played pivotal roles.
“I think a statue should commemorate the Paris tasting and all those who contributed to it — raising awareness, appreciation and elevating Napa Valley to the world’s premier wine region,” Grgich said. “Joanne contributed, as did Patricia Gallagher-Gastaud, whose idea it was in the first place. And my dad’s role has often been minimized over the years — they all deserve more recognition.”
DePuy’s role in shaping Napa Valley reflects the often-unseen forces that drive history. Her story highlights how vision, persistence and the willingness to work quietly behind the scenes can lead to extraordinary outcomes.
“I just did what needed to be done,” DePuy said with characteristic humility when reflecting on her contributions.
For those who know the full story, however, DePuy’s legacy is monumental. She is not merely a figure from Napa’s past; she is a bridge between generations, embodying the pioneering spirit that put the region on the map while continuing to inspire those shaping its future.
DePuy’s life is a reminder that history is rarely made by individuals seeking recognition but instead by those whose unwavering belief in a cause — and dedication to service — drives them to act. Her legacy endures not only in the wines that triumphed in Paris but in the countless lives and careers she influenced along the way. It is a legacy of determination, collaboration and the transformative power of a single individual to change the course of history.
Appendix 1: Full List of Winning Wines at the Judgment of Paris (May 24, 1976)
The White Wine Results: California Chardonnays vs. Burgundy Chardonnays
Chateau Montelena (1973) - USA
Meursault Charmes Roulot (1973) - France
Chalone Vineyard (1974) - USA
Spring Mountain Vineyard (1973) - USA
Beaune Clos des Mouches Joseph Drouhin (1973) - France
Freemark Abbey Winery (1972) - USA
Batard-Montrachet Ramonet-Prudhon (1973) - France
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles Domaine Leflaive (1972) - France
Veedercrest Vineyards (1972) - USA
David Bruce Winery (1973) - USA
The Red Wine Results: California Cabernet Sauvignon vs. Bordeaux
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars (1973) - USA
Château Mouton-Rothschild (1970) - France
Château Haut-Brion (1970) - France
Château Montrose (1970) - France
Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello (1971) - USA
Château Leoville Las Cases (1971) - France
Mayacamas Vineyards (1971) - USA
Clos Du Val Winery (1972) - USA
Heitz Wine Cellars Martha's Vineyard (1970) - USA
Freemark Abbey Winery (1969) - USA
Appendix II: Participants in the 1976 French Tour
André Tchelistcheff’s 1976 Tour of France Group
Louis P. and Liz Martini
Andy and Betty Beckstoffer
Bob and Nonie Travers
Arthur and Sheila Hailey (the author owned a vineyard in Napa Valley and thus qualified for the “wine industry only” tour)
Jim and Laura Barrett
Rene di Rosa and his fiancée, Veronica
Norb and Ruth Mirasou
Ernie and Virginia Van Asperen
Margrit Biever (soon to be Mondavi)
George and Gertrude Marsh
Morgen and Pauline Ruddick
Zelma Long
Chris Brix
Wally and Nancy Opdyke
Mary Ann Graff
Katie Spann
Stan and Carol Anderson
Bill and Ann Sorenson
Paul Tchelistcheff (André’s grandson)
Bern Laxer (official photographer)
André and Dorothy Tchelistcheff
Joanne Dickenson (DePuy)
This distinguished group comprised a blend of Napa’s pioneering vintners, influential figures in the wine industry and supporters who would play key roles in the global expansion of Napa’s reputation. The inclusion of Margrit Biever, Zelma Long and Mary Ann Graff highlights the presence of trailblazing women in an industry then dominated by men.
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Tim Carl is a Napa Valley-based photojournalist.
all the change has taken Napa Valley from the quaint area to the tourtist trap it has become.