Sunday E-dition: Napa Valley's Cheese and Crust — A Family’s Journey
By Tim Carl
NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — At nearly any farmers market in Napa Valley around lunchtime, you’ll find a line forming at Cheese and Crust, a family-owned mobile pizzeria. Operated by Efren Barrera and his wife Maria Vera, this business has earned a reputation for its authentic wood-fired pizzas.
Barrera and Vera are committed to delivering high-quality food made with fresh ingredients and traditional techniques. Originally from Tlaxcala and Guanajuato , Mexico, they built their business from the ground up in Calistoga, applying their culinary skills to every slice. Their transition from working in local restaurants to running their own venture highlights their dedication to craftsmanship.
Barrera’s culinary journey began in the kitchens of Napa Valley, where he gained experience at several notable restaurants. He honed his skills at Checkers and Bosko’s in Calistoga, both of which have since closed, learning the nuances of Italian cuisine. He also worked at Calistoga Ranch, which burned in the 2020 Glass Fire, and at La Prima Pizza, immersing himself in different aspects of the culinary world. His time at Press, a Michelin-starred restaurant in St. Helena, was particularly influential. There, Barrera worked both in the kitchen, mastering food preparation, and in the front of the house, where he developed a deep understanding of customer service. This comprehensive experience laid the foundation for Cheese and Crust, which he launched with Vera in 2022 to bring the flavors of Italy to Napa Valley.
Cheese and Crust quickly became a favorite at farmers markets in St. Helena, Calistoga, Middletown and even Occidental. A key to their success is their custom-built Italian wood-fired oven, crafted by Mugnaini in Healdsburg. This mobile oven brings the authentic taste of Italy to every location they serve.
"The flavor is in the oven," Barrera said. "That and the fresh ingredients are what makes our pizza special."
The menu at Cheese and Crust, while centered on pizza, also offers fresh salads and hearty pastas. The Calistoga Salad, with organic baby greens, roasted bell peppers and goat cheese, is a popular choice, as is Sofia’s Rigatoni, named after their daughter. These dishes reflect the family’s focus on quality ingredients and traditional recipes.
Two pizzas stand out on the Cheese and Crust menu — Santiago’s Pizza and Sofia’s Pizza, named after their children. Santiago’s Pizza features a spicy blend of Spanish chorizo, caramelized onions, roasted jalapeños and fresh cilantro, making it a customer favorite.
"Santiago is strong and spicy, just like the pizza," Barrera said. "It’s our best seller."
Sofia’s Pizza, originally featuring mushrooms, olives and sausage, has recently been reinvented with pesto sauce, fresh mozzarella, mortadella, artichokes, pistachios and sundried tomatoes.
"Sofia loves mushrooms," Vera said. "But we wanted to try something new, and the customers appreciate it."
These pizzas are more than just meals; they are milestones in the family’s journey and dedication to their business.
"Every pizza has a story," Barrera said. "And we enjoy sharing those stories with our customers."
"It’s hard work," Vera said. "Right now, it’s just us doing most of the work. We have help during events, but we are the ones making the pizzas, managing the business and raising our children."
Despite these challenges, Barrera and Vera remain focused on quality over quantity. Their goal is to build a strong reputation for exceptional food and service rather than expanding too quickly.
"We want to do one thing and do it well," Vera said. "Our goal is to create a name for ourselves, to be known for our quality and consistency."
Looking ahead, the couple dreams of opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant, a place where they can further share their culinary expertise with the community. For now, they are content with their mobile pizzeria, bringing their carefully crafted pizzas to farmers markets, private events and wherever else the road takes them.
As Cheese and Crust continues to grow, so does their following.
"We have customers who come looking for us at every market," Vera said. "When we miss a week, they notice, and they let us know they missed us. That’s when we know we’re doing something right."
For Barrera and Vera, Cheese and Crust is more than just a business; it’s a reflection of their journey from Mexico to Napa Valley and their commitment to building something meaningful.
"We’re doing what we love,” Barrera said. "And we’re doing it as a family. That’s what makes it all worth it."
Next time you’re at a farmers market in Napa Valley, look for the Cheese and Crust trailer. You’ll get a fresh slice of pizza made with high-quality ingredients and baked in a wood-fired oven by a family dedicated to their community and the foundation of a future restaurant.
If today’s story captured your interest, explore these related articles:
Ray Ray’s Tacos Adds Spice to St. Helena’s Expanding Food Scene
Sunday E-dition: Mental Health Tips for Caregivers and Students
Sunday E-dition: End-of-Life Planning for Peace in Challenging Times
Sunday E-dition: Retired Judge Brings Real Napa Valley Crimes to Life
Sunday E-dition: WineaPAWlooza Raises $1.1 Million for Animals
Tim Carl is a Napa Valley-based photojournalist.
Levity Corner
Caption contest: Pick your favorite caption or add your own in the comments below.
Possible captions:
"There’s always one in the flock who takes 'winging it' too literally."
"Some birds just see things a little differently."
"Taking 'thinking outside the box' to new heights."
“No one said the journey had to be boring.”
“Every flock has that one bird.”
Last week’s winner
In "Sunday E-dition: In Celebration of Work,” the winning caption was "A symphony of cogs, each playing its part,” with 36% of the votes.
Teamwork: the art of spinning in perfect unison.
In the grand machine, no one part is too small.
Sometimes, it’s the quiet ones that do all the work.
A symphony of cogs, each playing its part.
And to think, it all runs on coffee and determination.
Last Week
Last week, Tim Carl recounted Francis Ford Coppola’s appearance at St. Helena’s Cameo Cinema, where the legendary director celebrated the 50th anniversary of his film “The Conversation” and reflected on his illustrious career. Coppola shared personal stories about his filmmaking journey, including how Sergei Eisenstein’s work inspired him to pursue cinema and the pivotal moment he discovered Mario Puzo’s “The Godfather.” He emphasized the importance of context in his films, noting how he distilled complex themes into single words, such as "privacy" for “The Conversation.” Coppola also announced plans to return to the Cameo later this year for a discussion about his upcoming film, “Megalopolis.”
Glenda Winders reflected on the significance of Labor Day in her article, "Sunday E-dition: In Celebration of Work." Winders shared personal memories of the holiday, from childhood excitement for the return to school to the bittersweet emotions it now evokes. She also highlighted the historical origins of Labor Day and the value of hard work, drawing from her own family’s experiences. Winders emphasized the importance of appreciating the labor of others and the satisfaction of a job well done, while also recognizing the joy that meaningful work brings to life.
Dan Berger explored the resurgence of European-style winemaking in Napa Valley in his article, "Dan Berger’s Wine Chronicles: Napa Valley Wine Euro Style." He traced the historical shift from California's generic wines to varietal labeling, influenced by wine expert Frank Schoonmaker. While Napa's wines initially embraced regional differences, Berger noted that by the 1990s, the pursuit of high critic scores led to homogenized, high-alcohol wines, erasing regional distinctiveness. However, he highlighted a renewed interest in balanced, food-friendly wines akin to Europe’s, produced by winemakers like Steve Matthiasson and Seth Cripe.
David Layland shared insights on transforming landscapes with low-maintenance California native plants in his article, "Transform Your Garden — Embrace Low-Maintenance Native Plants." He detailed his experience redesigning his front yard using native species that require less water and care, guided by resources from the California Native Plant Society. Layland explained how fall is the ideal season to plant, and he provided practical tips on plant selection, layout, and maintenance. Years later, his garden continues to thrive with minimal upkeep.
We also recapped the 2024 Blessing of the Grapes at Grgich Hills Estate in the article, "Blessing of the Grapes 2024: Continuing the Legacy at Grgich Hills Estate." The ceremony, led by Father Mark Kisner, was particularly poignant as it marked the first without winery co-founder Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, who passed away earlier this year. His daughter, Violet Grgich, expressed gratitude for her father’s contributions while continuing his legacy of winemaking and sustainability. The event celebrated both the harvest and the enduring community that has supported the winery for decades.
Next Week
Next week we will have more interesting articles from a host of Napa Valley Features contributors. The Master Gardener series on Wednesday will provide gardening insights, while Dan Berger will focus on wine topics on Thursday. We’ll hear from Tim Carl about the current harvest, while Lisa Adams Walter will share stories about 9/11. Plus much more.
Celebrate a success story.