Good Article. Finding a Gewurz on the market for class is one of my problems. I just used AVV's. And I will tell you, EVERY time I pour Gewurz for my class they love it! I had the distributor get into a local wine shop for that reason.
I have never been more pleased to see the evolution of Anderson Valley Gewürztraminer since the 1980s. at one time, most of them were sweet. I just bought a bottle of the 2023 Navarro because it is so remarkably balanced, a tad sweet but with impeccable structure.
Gewurz doesn't get nearly enough press, especially via the Anderson Valley producers who are veterans at it, like Navarro and Husch. I was pleased to read your article and see those old-school producers highlighted.
One that you didn't mention (but are no doubt familiar with) is the late, great Lazy Creek. At various times in the mid-90s, I carried Navarro and Lazy Creek gewurztraminers on the wine list at Flying Saucer restaurant in SF. I can still distinctly remember how those wines tasted -- not bad for a guy who's otherwise killed off a few brain cells in the intervening years.
The only problem with the variety is it's bitterness, and that can be a nasty surprise to young winemaker because when the wine finishes, Fermentation, it's so appealing and floral that they tend to overlook the bitterness component. I just love what Anderson Valley has accomplished with this variety in the last 30 years!
I always loved the Lazy Creek style and when the project changed hands that wine was abandoned. There is a tiny quantity of Riesling on that site, but such a small quantity of it that only a tiny number of people get the fruit.
I didn't realize until I googled it yesterday that the Caranos bought the Lazy Creek brand in 2008. The tasting room in Healdsburg is 'permanently closed,' according to Yelp, and the whole brand seems to be defunct. In the meantime (as you know), the actual vineyard is now Twomey's AV winery. Do you mean there's riesling in those vineyards?
Just north of the entrance to the old lazy Creek property is a small hillside Vineyard, probably no more than 2 acres, called Vonarburg. I have only tasted two Rieslings from that Vineyard, Reeve and Cobb. Both are exceptional. My Riesling (2022 Bahl Fratty) is from Cole Ranch and is bone dry.
Agree with the comment about Hutch and Navarro. Also, closer to home, years ago I used to regularly buy cases of Gewurz from Stony Hill. They made an excellent version.
Good essay about Gewurz...Likewise not my favorite, but know a good one when I see one. BTW, the CO Gewurz, the Storm Cellar is excellent and the vineyard beautifully situated. Their Riesling is VG too. Will send you my CO wine report from earlier this year done for Iwinereview. Some great stuff there. Gewurz is a bear to make. The biggest problem with it is retaining acidity as it matures, and its mature only when the skins color up, by which point in too warm a site, the alcohol will be 14%+-, and the acid, zilch, as you know. The tannins are the by product of the process. I still remember (I think!) the really fascinating old Stony Hill Gewurz by Fred McCrea which managed to balance both ends against the middle, pretty well!
Good Article. Finding a Gewurz on the market for class is one of my problems. I just used AVV's. And I will tell you, EVERY time I pour Gewurz for my class they love it! I had the distributor get into a local wine shop for that reason.
I have never been more pleased to see the evolution of Anderson Valley Gewürztraminer since the 1980s. at one time, most of them were sweet. I just bought a bottle of the 2023 Navarro because it is so remarkably balanced, a tad sweet but with impeccable structure.
Dan,
Gewurz doesn't get nearly enough press, especially via the Anderson Valley producers who are veterans at it, like Navarro and Husch. I was pleased to read your article and see those old-school producers highlighted.
One that you didn't mention (but are no doubt familiar with) is the late, great Lazy Creek. At various times in the mid-90s, I carried Navarro and Lazy Creek gewurztraminers on the wine list at Flying Saucer restaurant in SF. I can still distinctly remember how those wines tasted -- not bad for a guy who's otherwise killed off a few brain cells in the intervening years.
The only problem with the variety is it's bitterness, and that can be a nasty surprise to young winemaker because when the wine finishes, Fermentation, it's so appealing and floral that they tend to overlook the bitterness component. I just love what Anderson Valley has accomplished with this variety in the last 30 years!
Tony:
I always loved the Lazy Creek style and when the project changed hands that wine was abandoned. There is a tiny quantity of Riesling on that site, but such a small quantity of it that only a tiny number of people get the fruit.
Dan
I didn't realize until I googled it yesterday that the Caranos bought the Lazy Creek brand in 2008. The tasting room in Healdsburg is 'permanently closed,' according to Yelp, and the whole brand seems to be defunct. In the meantime (as you know), the actual vineyard is now Twomey's AV winery. Do you mean there's riesling in those vineyards?
Just north of the entrance to the old lazy Creek property is a small hillside Vineyard, probably no more than 2 acres, called Vonarburg. I have only tasted two Rieslings from that Vineyard, Reeve and Cobb. Both are exceptional. My Riesling (2022 Bahl Fratty) is from Cole Ranch and is bone dry.
Agree with the comment about Hutch and Navarro. Also, closer to home, years ago I used to regularly buy cases of Gewurz from Stony Hill. They made an excellent version.
Dan,
Good essay about Gewurz...Likewise not my favorite, but know a good one when I see one. BTW, the CO Gewurz, the Storm Cellar is excellent and the vineyard beautifully situated. Their Riesling is VG too. Will send you my CO wine report from earlier this year done for Iwinereview. Some great stuff there. Gewurz is a bear to make. The biggest problem with it is retaining acidity as it matures, and its mature only when the skins color up, by which point in too warm a site, the alcohol will be 14%+-, and the acid, zilch, as you know. The tannins are the by product of the process. I still remember (I think!) the really fascinating old Stony Hill Gewurz by Fred McCrea which managed to balance both ends against the middle, pretty well!
Joel