The grapes and other blessings
By Sasha Paulsen
NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — I love September days in the valley when foggy mornings give way to brilliant sun before the fog creeps back in at night. And today was one of those when we could be nowhere else: a brilliant sky, a vineyard backdrop and the Mayacamas Mountains, and the Blessing of the Grapes at Grgich Hills Estate Winery.
Father Mark from the Carmelite House of Prayer in Oakville led the annual celebration, sprinkling holy water over a container of newly harvested grapes — chardonnay from Carneros. He handed olive branches to Violet Grgich, president of Grgich Hills Estate, and Ivo Jeramaz, vice president of vineyards and production, so he could give him a hand dousing guests with holy water, too.
“This was not in my job description,” Jeramaz quipped as he moved through the crowd.
The guests of honor were the founders, Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, who celebrated his 100th birthday on April 1, and Austin Hills, a mere 90.
“You see living proof that Grgich wines keep you alive,” Jeramaz said, laughing. “These two guys are better than an ad in The New York Times.”
It was the 97th harvest for Grgich, who got his start as a winemaker at age 3, stomping grapes on his family’s farm in Desne, Croatia. Although frail and riding in a wheelchair, Grgich waved to his guests and sang along as Violet, a musician as well as a vintner, played his favorite songs on the accordion: “You Are My Sunshine,” “Que Sera, Sera” and “Oh Marijana,” a Croatian song. “I was given an accordion when I was young,” she said. “Fortunately, I liked it.”
The Blessing of the Grapes is a harvest tradition still celebrated in the valley, mostly by family-owned wineries, Father Mark said. He and other Carmelite friars are invited to perform the ritual at about six wineries each harvest.
Jeramaz said it was the fourth time he had rescheduled this year’s blessing during a harvest that is taking its leisurely time to get underway.
“Four months ago, they asked me to set a date,” he said.
The one he chose in August proved to be too early; so did the next two dates.
“Then they told me I couldn’t change again,” he said. He brought in a bin of chardonnay at 17 Brix, earlier than his usual 22 or 23, “but they are beautiful grapes.”
And he is not complaining about this summer’s weather.
“We escaped the Labor Day massacre,” he said, referring to the heatwaves that struck in the past two years, “and this is a great thing.”
Jeramaz anticipates harvest will run into November “like the old days,” when vintners hoped to be done by Thanksgiving. “And if a little rain comes, that’s a good thing, too,” he added.
Father Mark, a former electrical engineer, spoke of the Blessing of the Grapes as a time to celebrate the bounty of the earth. Jeramaz, who has led the effort to make Grgich Hills not only 100% organic but also fully regenerative farming, echoed with science the wisdom of honoring nature or, as he put it, “following nature’s path.” And maybe it was the result of being sprinkled with holy water, but it seemed to me that both views converged in one happy harvest day.
At Napa Valley Features we’ve been feeling a bit of harvest gratitude as well. Moving into its fifth month, the project has brought together nearly 1,700 subscribers, and every day one or two or 10 new readers add their support. Of course, our valley is a special place where people can pause on a Friday morning to celebrate grapes, but I see this support of Napa Valley Features as one more sign that people care deeply about the valley and its infinite stories.
Last week
Last week one huge hit was Mariam Hansen’s, “Mystery solved: the stone ruin on Silverado Trail.” She dug deep to unravel the story of some old stones we drive past all the time. It made me start a list of other relics I’ve often wondered about as I drive around the valley. I am going to send them to her, too.
When I saw that Tim Carl was going to write about dahlias, I thought it was an unusual choice for him until I read it and realized that he had found in flowers an inspiring story of challenge and rejuvenation.
Two of my favorite Napa Valley writers, Lisa Adams Walter and Kathleen Scavone, also contributed. Walter, a champion of school musicians, wrote about the vibrant Napa High choral music camp, and Scavone, who explores the natural world of the Napa Valley, found enchantment in the simplest of things: seeds.
John Dunbar, the former mayor of Yountville, wrapped up the week with a moving story about Sept. 11, 2001, and the subsequent efforts to create 9/11 memorials here, 3,000 miles away from New York, where nonetheless the tragedy and the heroism of that day resonated deeply. He also included information about memorial services taking place throughout the valley.
Next week
Coming up next week: I spent a highly entertaining evening with the Addams Family, courtesy of Lucky Penny Productions, and I’ll write that story next. Rosie Kempton, a favorite writer of the artists in the valley, will preview the Open Studios Tour coming up this weekend and the following one. Dave Stoneberg will report on the Calistoga Cat Action Team, which I look forward to because I have no idea what this is. Virginie Boone reports on the national competition that took place in Napa to choose the team that will go to the 2025 “culinary Olympics” in France, the Bocuse d’Or. Don’t miss Friday’s Weekender, which will include a fun event coming up at the Napa Valley Museum, and you’ll find the Master Gardeners’ always interesting garden story on Friday, too. Tim Carl will finish the week with a look at the work of the Sunrise Horse Rescue organization.
In this spirit of harvest and gratitude, each story unfolds a new tale of the place that we call home, and if you can support the efforts of these writers, we will be grateful for this, too.
Sasha Paulsen is a Napa Valley-based novelist and journalist.