Sunday E-dition: Wild Fennel – A Secret Culinary Ingredient
By Georgeanne Brennan
NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — Wild fennel, a local edible, is in full bloom everywhere, and that means it’s time for me to gather fennel pollen and seeds, as well as some fragrant stalks. I spotted a fine stand on North Kelly Road, but it is everywhere. The hillsides between Napa and Sonoma have large stands stretching along the roadsides and plenty of places where you can pull over and stop to harvest.
If you’re not familiar with wild fennel, look for tall plants, up to 4 feet, with feather green fronds and heads made of clusters of small yellow flowers, like dill. Unlike cultivated fennel, it doesn’t form a bulb. It is native to the Mediterranean and adapted easily here to our Mediterranean climate.
Wild fennel is part of the southern European wild pantry, along with bay laurel, thyme, rosemary, capers and mushrooms. Not surprisingly, these ingredients are part of the flavor profile of Mediterranean cooking, both traditional and inspired. I’ve always been fond of foraging, and fennel season is one I look forward to each year.
In Italy, fennel seeds are a primary ingredient for seasoning porchetta. Just ask Taylor Boetticher at Fatted Calf in Napa, where he keeps his homemade porchetta in stock. No self-respecting Mediterranean fish soup can be made without a few snapped wild fennel stalks, and the fennel pollen, tasting slightly licorice with a hint is citrus and honey, is treasured for elevating dishes from fish to pastries. Fennel seeds appear in baked goods, sauces, marinades – anywhere a little hint of licorice is called for.
Gathering Wild Fennel
Through the month of October is the time to collect wild fennel pollen and stalks. The seeds should be ready for collection by mid-October. You’ll find the stalks and seeds to have a more intense aroma and flavor than those of cultivated fennel.
For Pollen
Cut the heads while the yellow flowers are in bloom and shake the pollen into a paper bag. It will take several heads to make a worthwhile amount. It is best stored in the freezer in an airtight container, where it will keep up to a year.
For seeds
When the yellow blossoms are gone, they will be replaced by brown seeds. Cut the head and shake the seeds into a paper bag. One head will provide a couple of tablespoons of seeds, so you might want to harvest several heads. Keep the paper bag in a dry, warm place until the seeds are thoroughly dried, then store them in an airtight container in your pantry.
For stalks
For maximum flavor, choose green stalks. Cut at whatever length you like and use them fresh within a week. To store, cut them to fit freezer storage bags or other containers and freeze. They will keep up to a year. Note: The flavor will not be as intense as when the stalks are fresh, but they are still more flavorful than those of cultivated fennel.
VINTAGE VOCAB: Wild Flavor Edition
Wild fennel might be your new pantry hero — but how fluent are you in rustic French kitchen-speak? One of these words is an outsider. Can you spot it?
FISH SOUP WITH WILD FENNEL
This soup is the essence of Mediterranean Provence in a spoonful, and it is my favorite of all the fish soups. As my daughter, Ethel, wrote in her book, “Paris to Provence – Childhood Memories of Food and France,” I have even made this soup while camping on the Sonoma Coast. Best of all, though, my neighbor in Provence used to make it in big batches and freeze it to have ready for me when I would visit, knowing how much I enjoyed it. Spooned over a rouille-topped grilled toast, the soup is usually served as a first course, but I can eat several servings and call it a meal.
The soup is also the base for a classic bouillabaisse, in which the fish for bouillabaisse is cooked, and the soup and the rouille are served as the first course, followed by fish and shellfish. There are multiple steps to this soup, but it is not complicated, and it is well worth both the effort and the purchase of a food mill if you don’t already have one. Do not use any oily fish, such as mackerel, sardines or tuna. For the heads and skeletons, try ordering them from a fish market, such as Anna’s in Petaluma, or from the fish counter at your favorite supermarket. Or, if making the fumet seems a step too far, use a good-quality purchased brand.
Start to finish: Fumet, 1 hour; soup, 40 minutes; rouille, 10 minutes
Servings: 4
For the fish stock (fumet)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, quartered through the stem end
2 cloves garlic, crushed or sliced
2 carrots, peeled and each cut into 3 or 4 pieces
1 leek, separated into white and green parts, and each part cut into 2 or 3 pieces
3 pounds fish heads and frames from non-oily fish such as sea bass, monkfish, snapper, cod or sole (no gills)
3 or 4 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs
3 or 4 fresh thyme sprigs
8 black peppercorns
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
6 to 8 cups water
For the Soup
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1pound mixed whole small rockfish, cleaned but heads and tail intact, gills removed
4 cloves garlic
2 onions, quartered
4 potatoes, sliced ½-inch thick
2 bay leaves
6 sprigs fresh thyme
6 large, very ripe tomatoes
5 cups fish stock
1 cup water
4 pieces of wild fennel stalk, with or without fronds, each about 6 inches long, or substitute cultivated fennel stalk plus 1/2 teaspoon wild or cultivated fennel seeds
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the Rouille
2 dried cayenne or other hot chilies, seeded
6 to 8 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
Large pinch of coarse sea salt
2 large pinches of fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads soaked in 1 tablespoon boiling water
2 egg yolks, at room temperature
1/2 to 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 baguette, cut on the diagonal into pieces about ¼-inch thick
To make the fish stock
In a Dutch oven or small stockpot over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. When it is warm, add the onion, garlic, carrots, and the white part of the leek and sauté, stirring, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fish heads and frames and cook, stirring, until they begin to turn opaque, about 3 minutes. Add the leek greens, parsley, thyme, peppercorns, wine, and water and bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface with a slotted spoon. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.
Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, remove and discard the large solids, then strain the stock through a chinois or a colander lined with cheesecloth. It can be used immediately, or let it cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day or freeze for up to 3 months.
To make the soup
In a soup pot over medium heat, warm 4 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the fish, 2 garlic cloves and the onions. Cook, stirring, until the fish begins to change color and fall apart, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, bay leaves, and thyme and continue cooking, stirring to prevent burning, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes. Add 2 cups of the fish stock and scrape up any bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the remaining 3 cups of the fish stock, the water, fennel, salt, and pepper. Cover and cook over low heat until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes.
Position a food mill over a bowl. Pour the contents of the soup pot into the mill and puree. Discard the debris in the mill. Rinse the mill thoroughly and purée the soup a second time. Transfer to a saucepan and set aside.
Preheat an oven to 400 F.
Place the bread on a baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place in the oven and toast until barely golden. Turn and toast the other side until dry. Remove and rub with the garlic.
To make the Rouille
In a mortar with a pestle, grind the chilies into a powder. Add the garlic and salt and crush and pound until a paste forms. The sharp edges of the coarse sea salt will act like little knives. Add the breadcrumbs and the saffron and its soaking water and incorporate into the paste. Scrape the paste into a bowl. Add the egg yolks and whisk until the mixture has thickened. Whisking constantly, slowly add the olive oil, a drop at a time until the mixture emulsifies and forms a mayonnaise-like consistency. Add only as much of the oil as needed to achieve a good consistency. Cover and refrigerate the rouille until serving.
To serve, place a piece of the toast in each of 4 bowls. Place a spoonful of the rouille on the toast. Ladle the hot soup around the toast, just until it begins to float. Serve accompanied by the remaining toasts and rouille, ladling more soup as desired.
Adapted from “La Vie Rustic,” by Georgeanne Brennan, Weldon-Owen 2017.
SCALLOP CRUDO WITH WILD FENNEL POLLEN
Scallops at their very best are like butter — smooth yet firm, with a taste of brine. Thinly sliced, with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, a bit of coarse sea salt and wild fennel pollen is the simplest expression of their quality that I know. For this super-simple dish, the only trick is to acquire sashimi-grade scallops, and they should be “dry,” not “wet.” “Wet” scallops have been chemically treated and contain excess liquid. If you are uncertain about the idea of eating raw scallops, lightly sear them first.
Start to finish: Crudo, 15 minutes
Servings: 4
4 large scallops, (preferably dry) sliced paper thin, chilled
2 teaspoons extra-virgin oil
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
2 teaspoons fennel pollen, preferably wild
½ blood or naval orange
½ teaspoon blood or naval orange zest
Fennel fronds for garnish
Arrange the sliced scallops, 1 per person, on individual plates or all together on a platter in an overlapping pattern. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with the salt and the fennel pollen. Cut off the ends of the orange and cut off skin, including the membrane, following the curve of the fruit. Cut 12 thin wedges or supremes, leaving the membranes on either side of the section intact. The supremes should be small, about ¼ thick and 1 inch long. Garnish each plate or platter with the supremes and with a sprig of fennel frond.
Adapted from “La Vie Rustic,” by Georgeanne Brennan, Weldon-Owen 2017.
WHOLE FISH GRILLED OVER WILD FENNEL
This is the way my neighbors in Provence taught me to cook whole fish after gathering the wild fennel the day before cooking. The fennel imparts a smoky, faint licorice flavor to the fish, plus, cooking it this way is fun.
Start to finish: 40 minutes plus time to heat the grill
Servings: 2 or 3
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 whole fish, 3 to 3 ½ pounds, such as rock cod or sea bass, cleaned and scaled but with head and tail intact
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 fresh wild fennel branches, each 12 to 18 inches long (or substitute cultivated fennel stalks and leaves plus 2 teaspoons of fennel seeds)
2 lemons, thinly sliced
Grapeseed oil or canola for the grill
Make a wood or charcoal fire in a barbeque grill or preheat a gas grill. Rub the grill well with the oil.
Pat the fish dry, inside and out.
Lay 5 branches of the fennel on a platter or baking sheet, along with most of the fennel seeds if you are using, and put the fish on the stalks. Rub the fish all over with the olive oil, salt, and pepper, including the cavity. Break the remaining stalk of fennel in half and tuck it into the fish cavity along with some of the lemon slices. If using fennel seeds, put some of these in the cavity, as well, and rub the outside of the fish with the remainder. Let the fish marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.
The fennel stalks will have gotten basted a bit with the olive oil while the fish was marinating, but rub the stalks a bit to distribute the olive oil before using them for the grilling.
Place 2 of the fennel stalks in a fish grilling basket or directly onto the grill to make a bed. Lay the fish on top and cover with the remaining 2 stalks.
Grill until the skin is golden and crisp and easily separates from the grill or grill basket, about 8 minutes. If the skin is crisped, the fish is less likely to stick to the grill. If using a basket, simply turn it over. If you are cooking directly on a grill, slip a long spatula under the fish, and with a second spatula to help, turn it. Grill until the second side is crisp and golden, and an instant-read thermometer reads 135 F when inserted into the thickest part of the fish but not touching the bone.
The flesh should flake easily when gently separated with the tip of a knife.
Remove to a platter, using the same technique you used to flip the fish. Remove and discard the fennel, both inside and outside, and the interior lemon slices.
Let the fish rest for 5 minutes. Have a serving platter ready.
With a sharp knife, cut the fish along the backbone from the head to the tail. Make a crosscut behind the head from one side to the other and a similar one behind the tail. With the flat of the knife parallel to the bone, gently lift the top fillet away from the bone and transfer to the serving platter. Starting from the tail, lift the bone until it separates from the bottom fillet. The head will remain attached to the bone, separating from the bottom fillet along with it. Discard the head, tail and bone. Transfer the bottom fillet to the platter and garnish with the remaining lemon slices. Serve at once.
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Georgeanne Brennan is an award-winning cookbook author who divides her time between her farm in Northern California and a home in Provence. Learn more about her at her website.
Today’s Polls:
Poem of the Day
“Mist”
By Henry David Thoreau
Low-anchored cloud, Newfoundland air, Fountain-head and source of rivers, Dew-cloth, dream-drapery, And napkin spread by fays; Drifting meadow of the air, Where bloom the daisied banks and violets, And in whose fenny labyrinth The bittern booms and heron wades; Spirit of lakes and seas and rivers,— Bear only perfumes and the scent Of healing herbs to just men’s fields.
About the author: Henry David Thoreau (1817–1862) was an American writer, philosopher and naturalist born in Concord, Massachusetts. A central figure in the transcendentalist movement, he emphasized individual conscience, spiritual inquiry and the moral power of nature. Closely associated with Ralph Waldo Emerson, Thoreau is best known for “Walden,” his account of two years living deliberately in a cabin near Walden Pond, and for his essay “Civil Disobedience,” which later influenced figures such as Gandhi and Martin Luther King Jr.
Though his poetry was less known in his lifetime, Thoreau wrote poems throughout his life, often rooted in observation and ecological wonder. He supported himself partly as a land surveyor, which deepened his attention to the physical and seasonal landscape. “Mist,” published posthumously in the 1895 collection “Poems of Nature,” reflects his lyrical sensitivity to natural transience. Thoreau died of tuberculosis at 44, but his journals and poems, many published after his death, helped secure his legacy as a foundational voice in American environmental writing.
Are you a poet, or do you have a favorite piece of verse you'd like to share? Napa Valley Features invites you to submit your poems for consideration in this series. Email your submissions to napavalleyfeatures@gmail.com with the subject line: "Poem of the Day Submission." Selected poets will receive a one-year paid subscription to Napa Valley Features (a $60 value). We can’t wait to hear from you.
Today’s Caption Contest
Pick your favorite caption or add your own in the comments below.
Possible Captions:
“And on the 31st night… they light you from the inside.
“It’s not the carving that hurts — it’s their smile.”
“If you hear giggling and smell cinnamon... run.”
“One minute you’re on the porch...”
“That’s when the scooping began.”
Last week’s contest results
In “Sunday E-dition: Calistoga’s Vuckovich — From the Knock of Death to a Life of Jazz,” the winning caption was “When did you first start feeling empty inside?” with 75% of the votes.
Caption Options:
“Would you describe your emotions as tannic or just bitter?”
“When did you first start feeling empty inside?”
“So, you dream you are a planter. Tell me more?”
“And when you cracked, what spilled out wasn’t wine, was it?”
“Do the grapes still whisper, or have they gone silent?”
Last Week
Tim Carl analyzed Napa County’s evolving economic landscape in “Under the Hood: More Businesses, Fewer Workers — Napa’s Leaner Economy,” highlighting how the region now supports more businesses than ever with fewer workers per business. Federal data show that since 2020, the labor force per establishment has dropped nearly 19%, pointing to a shift from expansion to efficiency. The trend reflects broader forces such as automation, consolidation and remote work, all of which have reduced local employment even as business filings rise. Carl noted that while this may suggest gains in productivity, it also signals fewer middle-income jobs and less community resilience. The findings mirror earlier reporting on how hotel growth has not translated into more local service employment.
Cindy Kerson explored the connection between outdoor experiences and cognitive health in “How Nature Boosts Brain Function and Well-Being.” Writing as a UC Master Gardener of Napa County, she described how time in nature stimulates brain-derived neurotrophic factor, a chemical linked to learning and memory, while also enhancing serotonin levels and immune response through exposure to soil microbes and negative ions near moving water. She noted that green environments are correlated with improved cognition and well-being, particularly in youth. The article emphasized that the brain and soil both rely on complex, interconnected networks and that working with nature benefits mental and physical health. Kerson encouraged readers to engage with nature mindfully and regularly.
Dave Stoneberg reported on Grace Episcopal Church’s 150th anniversary in “150 Years Young, Grace Episcopal Church Celebrates Its Saints,” focusing on how the St. Helena congregation is honoring past and present members while looking toward the future. Events included a talk by Rev. Dwight Zscheile on community engagement, a forthcoming book release by Lin Weber, and an upcoming Festival Eucharist led by Bishop Megan Traquair. Despite broader trends of declining attendance in historic churches, Grace is experiencing growth, attracting younger families and expanding its small group programs. The church also launched a long-term fund for building maintenance and continues to host community meals and bilingual services. The milestone has become a platform for reflection, renewal and connection.
Chris Benz reported in “Why Street Trees Matter in Napa’s Climate Future” on efforts to restore tree canopy in the wake of 41 street trees being removed from Coombs Street during a city repaving project. Maureen Trippe, co-founder of Slow Down Napa, is advocating for more comprehensive tree replacement as both a climate and traffic-calming measure. While the city has included tree planting in its Capital Improvement Project, Trippe raised concerns about gaps in coverage and burdens placed on property owners. She has met with officials, including City Council member Bernie Narvaez, to urge stronger commitments and integration of replanting into city planning. The article emphasized how mature trees contribute to sustainability, safety and neighborhood livability.
Dan Berger explored lesser-known grape varieties in “Wine Chronicles: A Case for the Overlooked Wines of the World,” highlighting a quiet but growing interest in rare wines often overlooked by mainstream critics. He noted that while Napa is dominated by cabernet sauvignon and other popular varietals, producers such as Forlorn Hope and Matthiasson are experimenting with grapes such as trousseau noir, charbono and ribolla gialla. Berger argued that obscure wines can offer complexity, balance and affordability that many high-priced cabernets lack. He also reviewed Robert Foley’s charbono and discussed the potential of grapes like areni noir and blaufränkisch in cooler regions of California. The article called for greater openness to varietal diversity in American wine culture.
Tim Carl profiled jazz pianist Larry Vuckovich in “Calistoga’s Larry Vuckovich — From the Knock of Death to a Life of Jazz,” recounting how a harrowing wartime childhood in Nazi-occupied Yugoslavia shaped his musical journey. Vuckovich’s early life included the secret sheltering of a downed American airman, his father’s imprisonment under communism, and eventual emigration to the U.S. in 1951. Once in San Francisco, Vuckovich immersed himself in the city’s thriving jazz scene, studying under Vince Guaraldi and performing with major artists across decades. The article also traced his reflections on the beatnik era, Calistoga’s changing music scene, and his continued dedication to jazz as both expression and legacy. Now 89, Vuckovich continues to perform, including a recent appearance at the Brannan Center.
Answer + Explanation
Answer: Scampo
Scampo is Italian — a singular form of scampi, referring to langoustines. You’ll find them in Venetian pastas, not Provençal stews.
The rest are French staples:
Rouille: A saffron-garlic mayo for fish soups
Fumet: A delicate fish stock
Supremes: Skinless citrus segments
Cuisse: Literally “thigh,” as in cuisse de canard
Each one ties to rustic or foraged fare — citrus to brighten, fumet to deepen, rouille to spice, and cuisse to satisfy. Only scampo swims in from another shore.
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