Sunday E-dition: A French Rosé Ritual, Napa Style

By Georgeanne Brennan

Jul 27, 2025

NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — A couple of weeks ago, as I lounged on a small Mediterranean beach in Banyuls-sur-Mer in French Catalonia, my daughter-in-law handed me a paper cup full of ice cubes and something pink.

“Rosé piscine,” she said. “Three euros at the snack bar.”

Was it a great rosé? I doubt it, but on that hot beach it tasted as if it were. A generous serving that stayed chilled, it allowed me to take thirst-quenching swallows and slow sips. The snack bar itself was a sort of temporary summer stand at the far end of the beach with drinks, baguette sandwiches and snacks. But only in France would you find a snack bar with fromage de chevre beignets, like fried chicken nuggets but goat cheese served in a cardboard cone. The warm bites, crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, proved to be an excellent pairing with the ice-cold wine.

A few days later, on another hot day, we were at a restaurant in a nearby village for lunch. I asked for rosé avec glaçons – rosé with ice cubes. The server said, “Rosé piscine?” and I said yes, pretty sure I’d get lots of ice cubes instead of two or three.

I was right. He was back shortly with our drinks order. Mine appeared in a big balloon wineglass, full of ice and filled to within an inch of the rim with rosé. Not only did it cool me down, but it was also a fine accompaniment to my tomato, cured ham and burrata salad. No need to order a second glass.

New Weekly Challenge: Try to pinpoint this riddle’s location — clues are subtle, but accurate. The answer is waiting at the bottom of the page.

Riddle:
Falcons once filled the crest,
Redwoods shade forgotten roads.
Old stone walls hug terraces of cab,
Where fog lifts late and plots twist quietly.
What place is this?

Now I’m back home in Winters, just over the hill from Napa, far away from the shimmering waters of the Mediterranean, but I can still enjoy rosé á la piscine, using local rosés from Napa and Sonoma. The varietals are different, but that’s not a problem. In Southern France the roses are typically blends of such varietals as grenache, syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault, while Napa and Sonoma vintners more often make their rosés with pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon or zinfandel, either as a single varietal or a blend.

What’s a Piscine?

Piscine translates as “swimming pool,” which has a double meaning – a large, swimming-pool-size wineglass large enough to fill up with lots of ice and wine, as well as denoting a casual, refreshing drink, like a dip in a swimming pool. Rosé isn’t the only wine French drink á la piscine – sparkling wine and whites are sometimes served this way, as well, especially at home.

A French brand, Rosé Piscine, made in southwestern France, states on the label to absolutely drink with ice. However, any dry rosé will accommodate the concept.

Like cooking with wine, don’t use the most expensive but still something drinkable on its own and moderately priced. The ice isn’t there to mask a poor wine but to enhance the pleasure of drinking a good one.

Mediterranean Appetizers to Pair With Rosé á la Piscine

FROMAGE DE CHEVRE BEIGNETS

These crunchy little morsels really deliver a taste of France. Serve them on their own as an appetizer or snack or add them to a salad of tossed greens and summer tomatoes.

Start to finish: 30 minutes

Servings: 8 beignets

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup panko or freshly made breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (optional)
1 4-ounce log goat cheese, chilled
Grapeseed or other oil for frying
2 eggs, lightly beaten in a shallow bowl

Spread the flour on a sheet of aluminum foil or on a plate. In a shallow bowl, mix the panko, salt, pepper, and optional thyme together with a fork. Set aside.

Slice the goat cheese into discs a scant half-inch thick. You should have about 8. Pat down any rough edges to make a smooth, sturdy round.

Pour the oil to a half inch deep in a frying pan. Heat over medium-high heat. Working quickly, coat each disc on both sides and edges with the flour, dip into the beaten egg, coating well, then roll in the panko mixture, making sure the disc is well-coated. Repeat, a few at a time.

Drop the coated discs into the hot oil and fry until just golden, about 1 minute. Turn and fry the other side until golden, another minute. Remove to a paper-towel-lined plate.

Serve hot or warm.

PETITS FRITURES (Crispy Fried Smelt)

Petites friteurs are the tiny anchovies and other small fish from the Mediterranean, only 2 inches or so long, that are fried in heaps and eaten whole, by hand or fork, along with lemon and sometimes aïoli. They are hard to stop eating when accompanied by a chilled glass of dry rosé or, better yet, a big, cold glass of rosé piscine. Here in California, I use ocean smelt, which are a little longer, up to 3 inches, but equally good.

Start to finish: 30 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6

1 ½ to 2 pounds frozen ocean smelt, not thawed
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons coarse sea salt plus extra for finishing
Grapeseed or other oil for frying
3 lemons, each cut into 4 wedges

Pat the fish dry.

Combine the flour and salt in a bowl and whisk them together. Place the mixture on a platter or a sheet of aluminum foil. In a frying pan, over medium-high heat, pour oil 1 inch deep.

When the oil is hot, dredge a handful of smelt in the flour mixture, shaking the excess flour through your fingers before carefully dropping them into the oil. Do not crowd.

Fry until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Remove them with a spatula or slotted spoon to a paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat with the remaining fish. Sprinkle with a little salt and serve immediately accompanied by lemon wedges.

PISTACHIO PESTO WITH GOAT CHEESE

I find a smear of this pesto and goat cheese combination on a plain cracker is just about perfect to accompany rosé a la piscine.

Start to finish: 30 minutes

Servings: 1 ½ cups

2 1/2 cups packed basil leaves
1/3 cup shelled, raw, salted pistachios
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 to 1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon pistachio oil
4-ounce log of fresh goat cheese
1 teaspoon pistachio oil (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped toasted pistachios

Make the pesto: In a food processor, combine the basil, pistachios, cheese, pepper and salt and process until coarsely ground. Slowly drizzle in the olive and pistachio oils, continuing to process until smooth.

Place the cheese on a small platter or plate and top with 3 tablespoons of the pesto. Drizzle with the optional pistachio oil and sprinkle with the chopped nuts.

Note: To store any remaining pesto, place in an airtight container and drizzle with a fine film of olive oil to prevent discoloring and refrigerate for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

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Georgeanne Brennan is an award-winning cookbook author who divides her time between her farm in Northern California and a home in Provence. Learn more about her at her website.

Today’s Polls:

Poem of the Day

Summer

By Christina Rossetti

Text within this block will maintain its original spacing when published


Winter is cold-hearted,
Spring is yea and nay,
Autumn is a weathercock
Blown every way.
Summer days for me
When every leaf is on its tree;

When Robin's not a beggar,
And Jenny Wren's a bride,
And larks hang singing, singing, singing
Over the wheat-fields wide,
And anchored lilies ride,
And the pendulum spider
Swings from side to side;

And blue-black beetles transact business,
And gnats fly in a host,
And furry caterpillars hasten
That no time be lost
And moths grow fat and thrive,
And ladybirds arrive

Before green apples blush,
Before green nuts embrown,
Why one day in the country
Is worth a month in town;
Is worth a day and a year
Of the dusty, musty, lag-last fashion
That days drone elsewhere.

About the author: In a previous article, “What Remains – An Easter Story,” we featured Christina Rossetti’s evocative poem "Spring" from her 1862 collection, exploring her vision of the season as a fleeting intersection between wonder and loss. Today we turn to her vibrant "Summer" poem, continuing our journey through Rossetti’s lyric treatment of the cycles of nature.

Christina Rossetti (1830–94) was born into a remarkable Anglo-Italian family of writers, artists and scholars. The youngest of four children, she grew up in London in a household steeped in literature, art and religious thought. Her father, Gabriele Rossetti, was a Dante scholar and political exile, and her mother, Frances Polidori, a former governess, educated the children at home. Christina’s brothers — Dante Gabriel and William Michael — would become central figures in the Pre-Raphaelite movement, while her own poetic voice emerged early and proved both distinct and enduring.

Rossetti’s work blends the visual detail of the Pre-Raphaelites with the devotional tone of the Anglo-Catholic tradition. Her first commercially published book, "Goblin Market and Other Poems" (1862), firmly established her reputation as a major literary figure of Victorian Britain. Her poems often explore themes of renunciation, mortality, memory and divine love — sometimes through fantasy, sometimes through plainspoken reflection. Though often underestimated in her time, she is now widely regarded as one of the most skilled and emotionally resonant poets of the Victorian period.

While "Spring" exemplifies Rossetti’s sense of the season tempered by both wonder and loss, her poetry as a whole is marked by a lyric style that is clear, restrained and quietly powerful. Her influence has only grown, especially as feminist criticism has illuminated her nuanced explorations of gender, faith and poetic voice. Today’s selection, "Summer," invites us to experience her gift for lyrical intensity and vivid nature imagery in the fullness of the year’s warmest days.

Are you a poet, or do you have a favorite piece of verse you'd like to share? Napa Valley Features invites you to submit your poems for consideration in this series. Email your submissions to napavalleyfeatures@gmail.com with the subject line: "Poem of the Day Submission." Selected poets will receive a one-year paid subscription to Napa Valley Features (a $60 value). We can’t wait to hear from you.

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Today’s Caption Contest

Pick your favorite caption or add your own in the comments below.

Possible Captions:

“When do we get to be old?”
“She said it’s a scenic route through the intangible.”
“Time tapped out first.”
“She says brakes are a mindset.”
“She’s chasing a note only she can hear.”

Last week’s contest results

In “The Only Rescue of Its Kind in Napa Valley,” the winning caption was “Momentum is a state of mind,” with 42% of the votes.

“Day 47: morale remains cautiously optimistic.”
“Estimated arrival? Unknown. Commitment? Unwavering.”
“Momentum is a state of mind.”
“The silence is part of the design.”
“The manual was edible, so they ate it.”

Last Week

Tim Carl reflected on the life of William E. Jarvis in “William E. Jarvis, 1925–2025,” honoring the engineer-turned-vintner who founded Jarvis Estate Winery and co-created the Jarvis Conservatory. Jarvis died at age 99, leaving behind a legacy of innovation and quiet conviction. He pioneered underground winemaking in Napa and applied scientific rigor to vineyard practices, including early adoption of leaf-pulling to enhance fruit quality. The article also chronicled his life journey from Oklahoma to Silicon Valley to Napa, as well as his and his wife, Leticia’s, support of the arts. His influence endures through both the wine and music institutions he helped to build.
Charlotte Hajer, with insights from Rubi Pelayo, explored the broader impacts of screen time in “More Than Social: How Screen Time Affects Our Mental Health.” The article examined how screen use for work, entertainment and social media can both benefit and harm mental health, depending on factors such as content, duration and user habits. Pelayo highlighted the physical and emotional toll of digital overload and emphasized the importance of intentional engagement, especially for youth. The discussion also addressed the growing role of AI and mental health influencers, urging caution and media literacy. Rather than avoiding screens, the piece encouraged balanced, mindful use to support well-being.
Tim Carl analyzed the potential fallout on Napa County jobs from proposed Medicare cuts in “Under the Hood: The Ripple Impact of Health Care Funding Cuts.” He reported that estimates suggest that up to 1,000 health care jobs could be lost in Napa County, a sector that now accounts for nearly 15% of local employment. Using economic modeling, Carl projected GDP losses between $78 million and $156 million directly — rising to as much as $453 million when ripple effects are considered. The cuts would also strain care access, raise costs and destabilize a rare source of year-round, high-wage employment. The column warned that such losses could undermine broader economic planning across the region.

Aileen Carroll offered a fresh take on summer gardening in “Edible Perennials Provide Beauty and Bounty,” encouraging readers to explore long-lived, low-maintenance plants that thrive in Napa Valley’s climate. She highlighted options such as fuchsia berries, longevity spinach, scented geraniums, pineapple guava and jiaogulan, noting their culinary and ornamental value. Carroll also reminded gardeners to be cautious about consuming ornamental plants not grown organically. By incorporating edible perennials, she argued, gardeners can create landscapes that offer both aesthetic appeal and year-round harvests with less effort than traditional annual beds.
Tim Carl reported in “The Only Rescue of Its Kind in Napa Valley” on the efforts of Napa Wildlife Rescue, the county’s only licensed full-scale wildlife rehabilitation center. The nonprofit has seen a 40% increase in animal intakes this year, with more than 1,300 wild creatures treated so far. Carl described the facility’s careful protocols, from intake to release, and profiled longtime volunteers, new interns and staff who care for species ranging from raccoons to songbirds. The story also highlighted the group’s need for expanded space and funding as demand continues to grow. Located in Carneros, the center operates without public funding, relying on donations, grants and a committed team.
Dan Berger examined the effects of rising temperatures on wine styles in “Wine Chronicles: Cool-Climate Conundrum.” He detailed how warming trends challenge the production of wines traditionally associated with cooler regions, prompting vintners to explore mitigation strategies such as canopy management, misting, higher-elevation sites and alcohol removal technologies. Berger also highlighted shifting definitions of “cool climate” and the role of diurnal swings, coastal influences and clonal selection. Through expert commentary and international comparisons, the piece underscored the complexity of adapting to climate change while preserving wine quality and style.
Kathleen McElroy reported on “Green Lodging Comes to Napa Valley,” highlighting a new certification program aimed at promoting sustainable practices in the region’s hospitality sector. Napa Green Lodging, developed by Visit Napa Valley in collaboration with Napa County and the California Green Business Network, helps hotels meet rigorous environmental standards in areas such as waste reduction, energy use and transportation. Six properties, including Auberge du Soleil and River Terrace Inn, have joined the program, which provides hands-on support to help businesses navigate certification. The pilot phase has generated strong interest, though challenges remain, particularly in sourcing non-toxic cleaning products. The program reflects a broader effort to align tourism with environmental responsibility.

Riddle Answer: Spring Mountain
The phrase “Falcons once filled the crest” subtly nods to “Falcon Crest,” a TV show filmed at Spring Mountain Vineyard in the 1980s. The rest evokes the redwoods, old vineyard terraces and winding mountain roads typical of the Spring Mountain AVA.

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