Selecting wine for your Thanksgiving meal
By Paul Franson
NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — Thanksgiving is the quintessential American holiday (though Canada’s celebration preceded it), but it follows the harvest celebrations of people in cold climates all over the northern hemisphere.
We’ve made it our own with native animals, vegetables and fruits, notably the turkey, potatoes, corn, squash, beans, pumpkins, maple syrup and pecans; though a few immigrants like butter, wheat flour and Brussels sprouts are invited.
Choosing the best wines to serve at Thanksgiving can be challenging, however. The typical Thanksgiving feast is an explosion of flavors; some like sweet potatoes and marshmallows notoriously unfriendly to most table wines, some hearty flavors like Brussels sprouts, and some easily overwhelmed like turkey breast or mashed potatoes.
And if the food is mostly native, the beverages aren’t. American wine grapes don’t make wine palatable to most people, barley and hops are imports, and so are apples. Even honeybees for mead.
Native people did make a beer from corn (maize) and if you venture into the southwest far from the pilgrims’ territory, the locals made pulque and other alcoholic beverages if not tequila. The Spanish imported distillation along with farm animals, dairy products and rice — their major food contributions to the Americas while borrowing corn, tomatoes, peppers and potatoes.
Assuming you don’t want to make corn beer, you turn to our European ancestors for beverages, but you can take an American twist.
Beer was popular in early days not only for the taste and buzz, but because it was safe: boiling the water to make beer purified it. Most sources of water were then suspect by the time we had civilized the place. Obviously, craft local beer is now being made everywhere, much excellent.
Likewise, whiskey made from native corn and other grains was also free of germs, though it had other ramifications.
Cider was relatively safe, too. The slight alcohol helped kill germs and preserve it. It was made from imported apple seeds — think of Johnny Appleseed. A historical figure, John Chapman was a nurseryman who introduced cider apple trees to much of the old colonies and new states.
Wine was an elite beverage in early America, being expensive and imported from Europe. We know that Washington drank Madeira and Jefferson was famously a wine lover. But wine became popular only after immigrants from wine-loving countries like Italy brought along their tastes.
Now, many of us regard wine as being as vital to Thanksgiving as the turkey, even more so among vegetarians!
Writers, who have to come up with Thanksgiving stories, argue endlessly about what to drink with Thanksgiving dinner, but after more than 50 years of consideration, I say just drink what you enjoy.
Not to be completely nihilistic, however, I can suggest a few options. For one, offer multiple choices.
We always start with bubbles. Of course, Champagne remains the standard, but I prefer to stay American. That no longer necessarily means Californian, though for those of us living in Napa Valley, we have great local choices.
Schramsberg really proved that California sparkling wine plays with the best, and Chandon, Mumm and Domaine Carneros are begrudging confirmation from French producers.
Still, other parts of the state make excellent bubbly, as do New York, Michigan, New Mexico, Washington and Oregon as well as other states.
I find an off-dry sparkling wine best for a crowd. Extra dry is distinctly sweet, but so called bruts have just enough sugar (“Natur” or “Natural” is likely to seem tart to many drinkers).
A sparkling rosé seems especially tasty, and I always open a bottle of Alsatian sparkler from Outer Space Wines.
When it gets to the meal, most people switch to still wines.
Do you want red or white wine with the turkey? I serve both.
Among whites, I generally prefer sauvignon blanc to chardonnay with meals. If you want to go upstage with sauvignon, Lail Vineyards makes an exceptional version called Georgia.
Chablis is always a good choice, too.
This really is the place for the classic rich Napa/California chardonnay, however, and if you like those butter bombs, Rombauer is the standard, but pallets of Butter Chardonnay from Napa’s JaM Cellars are likely stacked up at your local supermarket.
Rosés are also having their moment and are a nice compromise. It’s now legal to drink rosés year round, by the way.
And though I always keep a Bota Box of rosé in the fridge, I must admit that the southern French excel here. One of my favorites is from Gérard Bertrand, Cote des Roses. The fancy bottle draws “oohs,” but the wine is excellent. The price is all over. I’ve found magnums at Grocery Outlet for $20, but that’s a common price for a regular bottle.
When it comes to reds, America’s favorite red wine is Napa cabernet, perhaps a bit tannic for a meal with sweet potatoes and turkey breast, but perfect if you go for a beef roast.
In general, I’d go for a pinot noir. Some from California producers are wannabe cabs with heavy extraction, deep color and high alcohols, but you can certainly find some lighter ones like the traditional wines from Bourgogne, as they want you to label Burgundy these days. A few Napa wineries like Truchard, Krug, Sinskey and Bouchaine make them, but Anderson Valley, Sonoma Coast and Santa Barbara are better hunting grounds as, of course, is Burgundy.
Beaujolais is a good fruity alternative though Beaujolais nouveau is timely.
There are now many popular mysterious proprietary blends from Ménage à Trois to The Prisoner that are juicy, sweetish and mellow, which can work, too.
Those who consider zinfandel America’s grape (though it comes from Croatia) have an obvious choice and it can work well if it’s not huge and 15.5% alcohol. Napa doesn’t make much zin anymore – Lodi is its heart – but local producers like Frog’s Leap, Biale, Green and Red and Brown Family excel.
Not many people have room for dessert wines after a big dinner; a fine American spirit – Bourbon, brandy or applejack seems more fitting.
And don’t forget the low- and non-alcoholic drinks for the kids and the increasing number of adults who are cutting back. More and more companies are producing acceptable non-alcoholic wines, the best being white and bubbly. Red is more challenging.
Chocolate and vanilla are American, too, if from a bit south of Plymouth Rock.
Have a great Thanksgiving!
Suggestions from leading Napa wine retailers
I didn’t want to appear opinionated, so I asked a few leading wine retailers in Napa for their favorite wines for Thanksgiving, too:
Dan Dawson of Outer Space Wines
974 Franklin St., Napa, (707) 657-7401
Dan Dawson was head sommelier at The French Laundry (1998-1999) and wine merchant at Dean & DeLuca in St. Helena (1999-2001) and I’ve known him for a long time and respect his opinions. He chose two bargains and one special sparkler.
Rosé
Les Vendanges de F. Chidaine Touraine Rosé 2022. Rosé on the richer side like this is my personal favorite. It’s not a time for special wine for me, so I drink delicious wine that’s not too heavy, not too light. This rosé wine from the Loire Valley hits the mark. With more flesh, fruit and spice than its Provence counterpart, this rosé will hold up to holiday bites…including the Thanksgiving turkey. $15
White
Enfield Chardonnay "Citrine" California 2021. Chardonnay is my number one grape to pair with the traditional Thanksgiving meal, which is built on a foundation of neutral white meat, butter and toast. The Enfield has a little bit of everything but not too much of anything. Citrine Chardonnay is a balance of golden California sun and a gentle kiss of minerality. Half "Sierra Foothills,” half “Haynes” and “Heron Lake” Napa and “Brosseau.” Lip-smacking good orchard and citrus fruits, caramel, lime squeeze, oyster liquor. 900 cases made. $34
Bubbles
Gaston Chiquet Champagne "Special Club" Brut 2014. Baller Bubbles: 62% chardonnay, 38% pinot noir. Vallée de la Marne. Excellent 2014 vintage – disgorged July 2022. “Captures all the energy and vibrancy of the vintage while showing tremendous textural presence and fine overall balance. A gorgeous wine in every way.” Anthony Galloni. $105
Martin Gil at Back Room Wines
1000 Main St., Suite 120, Napa, (707) 226-1378
Martin Gil at Back Room Wines worked on the production side of wine in Napa but has found out that the hardest part of winemaking is selling it. Find him at Back Room Wines tasting and talking shop about all things wine related. Don't be a stranger if you need some wine advice and pop in during BRW's tastings. He gave me more choices, but I forced him to choose. The local ones have asterisks and are in order by category:
Sparkling
Pine Ridge Sparkling Chenin Viognier* - $22
Keush 'Origins' NV - $26
White
Chantemerle Chablis 2020 - $35
Belted Vines* Albariño 2021 - $35
Light and Medium Red
Dupeuble Beaujolais Nouveau 2023 - $22
Keep Merlot* and Chardonnay Carbonic Co-ferment 2021 - $30
Bold Red
Chris Hamilton* Merlot 2021 - $40
Green and Red* Chiles Canyon Zinfandel 2021 - $32
Matt Stamp of Compline Wine
1300 First Street #312, Napa, (707) 492-8150
Sommelier Matt Stamp of Compline Wine Shop chose some I never would have thought of.
JL Chave Saint-Joseph Blanc "Circa" 2021: Old-vine Roussanne from the heart of the Clos Florentin vineyard, this is a chance to try Chave at an affordable price point as well as a textural, weightier white for the Thanksgiving table. $40
Pott Wines "Pour Ma Gueule" Carignan 2021: Made here in Napa with Green Valley old-vine Carignan. Aaron Pott is one of the valley's more versatile winemakers, and this bright, lip-smacking style of Carignan proves it. If cranberries go with everything on the Thanksgiving table, so will this wine. $55
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, Chevillon 2020: A blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay from one of the masters of Burgundy. Can't go wrong! $52
Stevie Stacionis of Bay Grape
2999 Solano Ave., Napa, (707) 699-2135
Stevie Stacionis, owner of Bay Grape, suggested a serious Beaujolais, German Riesling, unusual bubbly and a perfect wine to show thanks:
Foillard Eponym Morgon 2021, $60 (or for a slightly more rustic and affordable but still lovely version the same producer's Beaujolais-Villages, $30) - just like your cranberry sauce... but in a glass.
Anheuser Niederhauser Riesling Kabinett Nahe 1998 - off-dry but in a saffron-honey way with swooshes of balancing tartness and low alcohol. $23
Cruse Rancho Chimiles Vineyard Demo Series Sparkling Valdiguie Napa 2019 - smells like white strawberry and fresh rain in the garden; feels like a luxurious bubble bath for your mouth.
Uphold Zinfandel California 2019 - a merry fruit cocktail party, plus all profits from this bottle go to organizations that uphold human rights; giving back is a core value for us this time of year. $18
Paul Franson is the publisher of NapaLife, a weekly newsletter that focuses on news and events about food, wine and the arts.
Great ideas- it's time for some new flavors!
BEST dessert wine and known by chefs, Cremant Demi-Sec, Schramsberg. Heaven with pumpkin pie.