Napa’s Angèle Restaurant and Bar: a father, a daughter and the power of family
By Tim Carl
Angèle, a jewel among Napa Valley restaurants, provides more than just delicious cuisine. It has also become one big family.
Spearheaded by Bettina Rouas, the owner, the eatery on Napa's vibrant waterfront owes its legacy to a lineage deeply rooted in the food industry. Even at 90, Bettina's father, Claude Rouas, is a revered restaurateur who is noted for introducing refined dining to Northern California in the 1960s. His L’Etoile was one of the region’s first French-inspired restaurants.
A family rooted in Napa and Paris
After spending her childhood immersed in San Francisco's thriving restaurant culture, Bettina moved to Napa Valley in the early 1980s, when her father launched Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford. She was in high school, but on weekends she worked at the resort. After graduating she moved back to the city and worked front of house at popular spots such as Prego and Ciao. Eventually she managed Undice with Tim Dale.
Feeling a need to reconnect with her roots, Bettina moved to Paris to live with the aunt who had raised her father. Her four-year sojourn included working in various restaurants, gaining a deeper understanding of her family's history, and building a stronger appreciation and connection with French culture.
During her stay in Paris, Bettina juggled restaurant shifts and weekly visits with her aunt, who told her stories about her father's upbringing in Algeria, his hotel school journey at 14 and his eventual relocation to Paris. Bettina said this Parisian chapter helped her forge a closer bond with her family history while deepening her admiration for her father.
It was also during this time — with a growing appreciation for the importance and power of family — that Bettina envisioned herself running her own restaurant. Returning to Napa Valley, she assumed management roles at The French Laundry, Bistro Don Giovanni and Bistro Jeanty until 2003, when her father agreed she was ready to head her own venture. The restaurant's name, Angèle, is a tribute to Bettina's grandmother.
A few years back I met with Claude and Bettina at his acclaimed Auberge du Soleil restaurant and resort overlooking Rutherford. At that time Claude had shared his deep admiration for his daughter's achievements, highlighting her ability to transform Angèle into a highly regarded and reputable restaurant.
“When she told me the name for the restaurant, I thought it would be too difficult for people to pronounce,” Claude said. “But she was adamant that it be called Angèle.”
Bettina never knew her grandmother, but even so she felt a strong connection to her and her name. In cementing that connection, the family traveled to Algiers to visit the cemetery where the grandmother was buried. When they arrived, half of the Jewish cemetery had been covered up by a freeway and the rest was in tatters. Because most of the tombstones were piled into stacks, initially they believed they would never find her gravesite.
“Somehow, through that maze of towering stacks and rubble, we landed at her gravesite,” Bettina said. “So it just had to be called Angèle.”
One big family
It is not just the familial ambience that keeps customers coming back to Angèle, however. The flawless execution of service and food also play an integral part. While Bettina attributes much of the culinary success to Executive Chef Josue Alvarado, it's clear that the influence and experience of both Bettina and Claude extend into the kitchen, as well.
Alvarado, who was born in Costa Rica and has trained all over the world, including in Spain and Buenos Aires, affectionately calls Claude "Papa.” Besides working his way up at Angèle from line cook to sous chef and now executive chef, Alvarado has also spent time at other local favorites such as Bottega and Bistro Jeanty.
He attributes the restaurant's popularity to a familial work culture, a commitment to quality ingredients and a respect for local ingredients married with tradition. This sentiment is echoed by staff members, a couple of whom — Dan Williams and Marcos Ceballos — have been with the establishment since its opening.
"Bettina and Claude have cultivated a team environment that prioritizes excellence while maintaining comfort and approachability," said Kelly Mitchell-Jacks, the general manager at Angèle since 2013. "The simple act of acknowledging each other, from the cooks to the dishwashers, when entering through the kitchen, fosters unity and mutual respect."
As with other post-pandemic family-owned businesses, Angèle hasn't been immune to challenges caused by slowdowns due to fires, a shaken customer base, soaring costs and a shrinking labor market. Yet the shared sense of sacrifice and the relentless pursuit of providing an exceptional guest experience have helped them weather these trials. Emerging from the pandemic, the restaurant even reported record-breaking sales.
"Innovative initiatives like the 'Out the Blue Door' program that offered meal kits and local produce shopping during the lockdown helped us stay afloat," Bettina said. "The teamwork and creativity during these trying times are a testament to our strength as one big family."
Though Claude's visits to the restaurant are less frequent now, his presence is always cherished.
"Whenever he's with us, it feels like a celebration,” Bettina said. “On Father’s Day, I hope every father is celebrated just as much because in my eyes, my father is truly my hero.”
For my children’s birthday we took them to Chez Michel restaurant in San Francisco in 1973. Michel was Claude’s brother I found out 20 years ago when I moved to Napa from Hillsborough. I am a huge fan of Angèle. Quite a story from Algeria to Napa Valley.
Lovely article. Happy Fathers Day to the whole family.