Kenefick Ranch: Second-gen Napa Valley vintners carry on father’s vision
By Tim Carl
Located on the outskirts of Calistoga in the northern Napa Valley and bordering the foothills of the Vaca Mountains is Kenefick Ranch. This family-operated vineyard and wine producer recently saw the transition to the second generation of vintners who are continuing the legacy of their late founder, Tom Kenefick.
"We feel a profound sense of responsibility and optimism about the future," Chris Kenefick said. "Having our daughter now makes it even more vital to ensure the sustainability of our vineyards and winemaking operations for generations to come."
The early years
Raised in San Francisco where their father was a notable neurosurgeon, Chris and Caitlin Kenefick regularly visited the Napa Valley property that he purchased in 1980. Initially the estate was filled with walnut trees and Italian grape varieties maintained by horse-drawn plow, but over time the vineyards were modernized and replanted with Bordeaux reds and distinctive white Rhone varieties such as Grenache Blanc and Marsanne. Today the property spans 256 acres, 100 of which are under vine.
"We visited nearly every weekend, and our dad loved involving us as he drove the tractor," Chris said. "It was hard work, but Dad was perpetually on the move and he adored this place. He retired here in 2000, but in truth he never really retired."
Augustus (Gus) Garcia and his family moved onto the property in the mid-1980s to lead the daily farming tasks. Since then, the Garcia family and their crew have worked to set Kenefick Ranch apart as one of the few vineyards managed internally rather than by a vineyard management company.
Following Kenefick's passing in 2021, Caitlin and Chris, along with Chris' wife Kali, took control of Kenefick Ranch. Caitlin, who lives on the East Coast, now assists with marketing, branding and sales events. Chris, as the CEO and proprietor, oversees operations and national sales. Chris and Kali balance their responsibilities between their new daughter and Kali’s full-time role as an internal strategy consultant at the Wonderful Co., the producers of Fiji water and owners of wineries such as Lewis Cellars.
Like her husband, Kali has strong roots in the region. She grew up in St. Helena, where her parents owned and operated David Jewelers on Main Street.
“I left thinking I might never return,” she said, “but after a few years away it became clear to me that this place is my home.”
Grape growers turned vintners
The Keneficks sold all their grapes until they began producing their first wine in 2002. Even today 90% of the grapes grown onsite are sold to other wine producers, including prominent wineries such as Caymus, Nickel and Nickel, and Elusa. While many wines produced from their ranch's grapes retail for several hundred dollars per bottle, all but one of the Kenefick Ranch wines sell for less than $100 per bottle. To highlight the value of their wines, Chris refers to the numerous acclaimed vineyard estates surrounding their property.
"The soil in this part of the valley is well-drained and gravelly loam, leading to grapes that can fully ripen without yielding wines that are excessively high in alcohol," he said. "Our soil, grapes and location help make our wines comparable to those of our neighbors — like Kelly Fleming, Kirk Venge, Baldacci, Eisele, Phifer Pavitt, Poggi and Fisher Family. Of course our winemaker plays a critical role, as well."
Kent Jarman, the winemaker, joined the winery in 2006 after leaving Duckhorn. Jarman's winemaking style includes several valley norms, such as hand-picking in the vineyard and hand-sorting in the winery, with team members carefully selecting the best fruit at the sorting table. He frequently uses native yeasts, allows for extended cold soaks, and maintains optimal fermentation temperatures to achieve balance and complexity in the wines. However, something else makes Jarman's wines stand out among northern Napa Valley wines that is challenging to pinpoint. Perhaps it's his measured approach to client commitments, prioritizing quality over quantity. Or maybe it’s his time at Duckhorn, where merlot crafting was elevated. Whatever his secret might be, one thing is clear: Wines made by Jarman are worth seeking out and savoring.
The wines
The 2019 Kenefick Ranch Merlot (150 cases, $50 a bottle) is a standout wine that could make even fans of the movie “Sideways” reconsider their reservations about the quality merlot can achieve. This full-bodied, garnet-hued wine brims with aromas of indulgent dark fruit, rich brown chocolate, mature pipe tobacco and creamy mocha. The flavors mirror the aromatics but conclude with red cherry and chewy tannins. After an 18-month aging in French oak barrels, the wine was bottled unfiltered and unfined to retain its depth and essence.
The 2022 Kenefick Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (350 cases, $30 a bottle) also commands attention. Showcasing a rich straw hue, this wine transports you to a summer picnic, replete with fragrances of citrus bloom, Key lime pie and a subtle hint of freshly mowed grass. The tasting experience unfolds with vibrant flavors of grapefruit, tropical fruits and white peach, all anchored by lively acidity. This wine offers a contemporary interpretation of Napa Valley sauvignon blanc, skillfully combining the crisp, green, grassy nuances with the tropical notes typically associated with warmer viticultural areas such as Calistoga.
The 2019 Kenefick Ranch Cabernet Franc, Caitlin's Select (300 cases, $50 a bottle) greets you with an enticing deep dark-red hue. Its intricate bouquet unfurls ripe-black fruit notes, featuring dried-strawberry along with an unexpected twist of roasted guajillo chili, ginger snap cookies and the fresh earthiness of newly tilled garden soil. The flavor profile is unapologetically intense, revealing a robust ensemble of blackberry, herb-roasted lamb and rich dark chocolate. This wine is not only juicy and mouthwatering but also exudes a savory quality, showcasing the distinctive traits of the terroir and winemaking process. An 18-month aging period in French oak barrels notably enhances the wine's smoothness and opulence in mouthfeel and flavor.
The 2019 Kenefick Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Chris Cuvee (1,100 cases, $65) is opaque in the glass, exhibiting a rich bouquet of Chambord, black tea, smoky oak and a hint of sandalwood incense. Its taste mirrors the aromatics with an addition of ripe plum, pipe tobacco and blackberry coulis. This wine embodies the depth and character attainable through meticulous vinification: a three-day cold soak and a 14-day fermentation at 90 F, with twice-daily aerated pumpovers performed until the must falls below 1 degree Brix. The delestage process was carried out three times during fermentation, enhancing extraction. The aging process consisted of 18 months in barrel and a further 24 months in the bottle, resulting in a depth of character and complexity.
The 2015 Kenefick Ranch Dr. Cabernet Sauvignon (75 cases, $125), named in honor of the vineyard's founder, enthralls with its inky darkness and savory, meaty, earthy aromatics intermingled with baking spices, smoky cedar, bold black licorice and rich crème de cassis. Retaining the distinctive style of all Jarman's wines, this selection offers impressive depth balanced by vibrant acidity. The palate is adorned with dark fruit and graphite, supported by polished tannins and hints of mocha, cherry liqueur and duck confit. After nearly two years maturing in French oak and an additional five years of bottle aging, this limited-edition wine mirrors the enduring quality of notable Bordeaux wines, such as the memorable 2000 Chateau Lynch-Bages.
With a total annual production of only about 1,500 cases and no formal tasting room, Kenefick Ranch wines are indeed rare. While available in select markets nationwide, they can also be found locally at establishments such as the Wine Stop in Calistoga, Gary’s in St. Helena, or restaurants such as Solbar at Solage Resort, TRUSS at the Four Seasons in Calistoga or Sam's Social Club. Additionally, Kenefick wines can be purchased from their website, where more information can be found about upcoming events, such as their ever-popular annual harvest party held each October.
When I met Chris and Kali at their ranch, my intention was to explore what it was like taking the reins of a storied vineyard operation in one of the most sought-after locations in northern Napa Valley. However, as we spoke, my original questions seemed somehow moot.
Here was a young family that had grown up in the valley and had now dedicated themselves to becoming second-generation grape farmers and vintners, along with Caitlin and their new daughter, Keira. There would be challenges, such as the constant threat of fire, drought or some new pestilence. But here they were, ready and willing to give it everything they have to make it work and to not only survive but thrive.
"Many of the first generation – including our father – came here to do something fun and new,” Chris said, “but we are doing something different.”
From where we sat on the deck of the couple’s ranch home, the verdant vineyard rows in the distance converged into vanishing points at the base of the hazy blue western Mayacamas Mountains. The baby stirred.
“This is not where we plan just to retire, but it’s what we’ve chosen to do with our lives,” Chris said. “But like our father, our plan is to pass this along to the next generation better than we found it."
For more information about Kenefick Ranch and to join their wine club, visit their website at www.kenefickranch.com.
Wonderful in-depth family story. I could almost taste the wines as I read it.
Cheers, Nancy S. Brennan
Thank you, Tim, for this most interesting article...am ordering a case of Sauvignon Blanc at your suggestion...can't wait to try it! Dick and Dolly Clark were old friends of mine...