Is Malek Amrani Napa Valley's newest disruptor?

By Eduardo Dingler

NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — Napa Valley, renowned for its winemaking legacy, consistently sees evolution and innovation at the hands of influential figures who dare to disrupt the traditional wine scene. Over the years, several individuals have made significant contributions to this evolution.

Malek Amrani and his wife and co-founder, Torie Greenberg, pose with their daughter and “Bruce Wayne” at The Vice Wine — Tim Carl Photo

André Tchelistcheff, for instance, brought transformative changes to the region's winemaking techniques, significantly enhancing the quality of local wines. Another notable figure is Robert Mondavi, whose extensive marketing strategies catapulted Napa Valley onto the global stage, earning widespread acclaim for its wines.

Heidi Barrett also played a pivotal role in the valley's wine culture. She is credited for the creation of some of Napa’s most sought-after “cult wines,” such as Screaming Eagle, raising both the prestige and the quality standards of the wines on which she worked.

Jayson Woodbridge and Jean-Charles Boisset are other contributors. Woodbridge's Hundred Acre brand stands out due to its bold, unapologetic approach. Boisset, a dynamic entrepreneur from France, has influenced more than just winemaking. His unique style, characterized by leopard-print décor and high-end Baccarat glassware, has infused the valley with a sense of luxury and exuberance.

In recent years a new potential disruptor has emerged: Malek Amrani, owner of The Vice Wine, whose journey from Morocco to Napa Valley is a tale of ambition and passion. Introduced to wine at a young age, Amrani's fascination with the beverage grew, leading him to New York City to start a career in the beverage industry. After a stint in various roles, including with Diageo and LVMH Moët Hennessy and running a wine import business, he ventured into winemaking.

Malek Amrani plays with his daughter at The Vice Wine —Tim Carl Photo

The Vice Wine, established in 2016, is a testament to Amrani's innovative spirit. This small-batch producer focuses on single-varietal bottles, aiming to make exceptional Napa Valley wines accessible to a wide audience. The winery’s portfolio includes a variety of wines, with prices ranging from around $29 for their rosé to their premium Napa cabernet sauvignon, which has been awarded 91 points by Wine Spectator and costs more than $100 a bottle. The winery, located in St. Helena, hosts tastings both in person and virtually, showcasing Amrani's journey in resilience and discipline.

Amrani's approach to winemaking emphasizes minimal interference, both in the vineyard and the cellar, encapsulating his belief that, "with Napa, less is always more." His disruptive influence is particularly evident in his creation of more than 100 different cabernet sauvignons, each showcasing unique characteristics derived from diverse vineyards and varied winemaking techniques. This exploratory approach allows Amrani to understand both the terroir and the intricacies of winemaking.

Moreover, The Vice Wine has ventured into the relatively unexplored territory of orange wines in Napa Valley. Orange wines, made by macerating white grapes with their skins, gain complexity and nuance from the tannins and phenols released during this process. The Vice Wine’s Orange of Semillon, produced through 21-day skin contact and eight-month fermentation with wild yeasts, exemplifies this technique.

Co-founders Malek Amrani and his wife, Torie Greenberg, pose at The Vice Wine — Tim Carl Photo

Amrani's youthful energy and enthusiasm are evident in his diverse wine offerings and in his active lifestyle, including his participation as a USA Triathlon Team athlete. In early 2024, Amrani is set to take up a significant role on the board of the Napa Valley Vintners, joining other industry leaders. This position not only reflects his achievements but also his commitment to contributing to and inspiring the Napa Valley community.

Amrani's journey, from his early days in Morocco to becoming a key figure in Napa Valley, underscores his role as a potential transformative figure in winemaking. His innovative approach and dedication to quality and accessibility mark him as a potential potent disruptor in the world of wine, continuing the legacy of those who redefined Napa Valley's winemaking landscape.

Eduardo Dingler is a Napa Valley-based wine writer, wine judge and sake aficionado. Follow Eduardo’s sake journey @sakedrinker. Tim Carl contributed to this article.