Green Wednesday: Fall Garden Wonders and Literary History in Napa Valley
By Aileen Carroll, U.C. Master Gardeners of Napa County / Kathleen Scavone, Environmental Contributor
Green Wednesday: Gardening and Ecological Insights
Every Wednesday Napa Valley Features brings you Green Wednesday, featuring articles from environmental voices and the UC Master Gardeners of Napa County. These contributors share research-based horticultural advice, insights on sustainability, ecology and climate topics relevant to our region.
Summary of Today’s Stories
In "Taking a Walk Through Your Neighborhood? Here’s What to Look for This Fall," Aileen Carroll highlights how seasonal changes reveal plant behavior, pollinator activity and garden surprises across Napa Valley.
“Red coloration can point to nutrient deficiencies, water stress, or even bacteria and viruses.” — Aileen Carroll
In "Robert Louis Stevenson Museum—A Cool Summer Stopover," Kathleen Scavone explores the author’s Napa Valley legacy and the museum dedicated to his life and works, along with other local cultural destinations offering respite and enrichment.
“There are double words for everything: the word that swells, the word that belittles.” — Robert Louis Stevenson
Robert Louis Stevenson Museum
By Kathleen Scavone
NAPA VALLEY, Calif. — A warm late-summer day calls for reading a good book on a shady porch or under the umbrella of a favorite tree. When the iced tea is gone, visiting the cool enclave of a museum is one of my favorite summer pastimes. We all know — and sometimes take for granted — that Robert Louis Stevenson State Park is named in honor of the famed author who lived from 1850 to1894 and who briefly spent time in the Napa Valley. The Robert Louis Stevenson Museum at 1490 Library Lane in St. Helena, right next door to the library, is a small wonder.
The museum, which receives around 1,500 visitors each year, is packed with stories and treasures galore. Although entry is free, a $10 donation aids in running the museum. Barrett Dahl, executive director (who recently announced that she will be leaving that post), and Gabrielle Van Amburg, the museum's administrative associate, are extremely gifted in their backgrounds and knowledge of the writer and the artifacts, including the art, in the museum. A tour with them yields out-of-the-ordinary facts about the author and his writings.
Stevenson met Fanny Van de Grift, an American, during a trip to Grez-sur-Loing in France. They married in San Francisco in 1880, then journeyed to the Napa Valley via train to the Calistoga Railroad Depot to honeymoon for several weeks in May at a Hot Springs Hotel cottage. The depot is one of California's oldest, having been built by Sam Brannan in 1868. Next, the couple became “Silverado Squatters” as they traversed Mount St. Helena, where they remained until the last part of July.
During a tour of the RLSM you'll become privy to some of the newlyweds’ haunts that are sprinkled throughout the Napa Valley. Visit the Sharpsteen Museum to view one of the surviving cottages like the one in which they honeymooned at Brannan's Hot Springs Hotel. While you're at the Sharpsteen you'll be treated to layers of fascinating history of the Upper Valley, along with their section on Stevenson.
The newlyweds visited many of the same attractions that are loved today, such as the Old Faithful Geyser, one of three geysers worldwide that spout regularly. They took time to visit the geologic wonder that is the Petrified Forest, where a volcanic explosion 3.4 million years ago occurred. Here is where they met Charles Evans, aka Petrified Charley, a Swedish homesteader who discovered the petrified logs in 1870 when he was raking the pasture. The Petrified Forest has a superb gift shop that is well-stocked with books, art and other treasures. A hike here is always a treat, and trails are open even though the property is for sale.
Other familiar landmarks the Stevensons enjoyed while they were visiting the Napa Valley were both Beringer and Schramsberg vineyards. They took the Old Lawley Toll Road, which is favored today by bicycle riders over Mount St. Helena. Visit the Bale Grist Mill, constructed in 1846, where the Stevensons learned about the water-powered grist mill that was a favorite visiting site for Napa Valley's settlers to catch up on news while their wheat or corn was ground into flour. The Bale Grist Mill has a special gift shop and interpretive center you will enjoy.
The RLSM is home to many of Stevenson's personal materials. One item everyone loves is his writing desk. The oak desk made the voyage with him from his home in Samoa, where the Stevensons purchased an estate in 1890. The climate there helped his always-fragile health. Special features of this beautiful piece of furniture are its compartments that were made to contain his ink, pen nibs, papers and other supplies for penning his books and other works.
Hundreds of his artifacts as well as those of his family are in the museum. Take a trip to the past and learn about items such as his wedding ring, his toy soldiers, his grandfather's clock and Fanny's embroidered coat. Her gloves, which she “found,” actually belonged to Henry James. When you visit the museum, you will discover many such delicious historical tidbits.
Archives in the museum hold numerous primary source materials, such as manuscripts, notes and letters both by and belonging to Stevenson. His marriage license is held in the archives, as is his last writing from Dec. 3, 1894. He died in Samoa in 1894 from a brain hemorrhage.
The museum is home to many rare books in several categories. Some books hail from Stevenson's family library at the Vailima estate in Samoa. Numerous biographies and important studies are here for Stevenson scholars to peruse. Also held in the museum's library are some of his copies of his work in many genres — essays, poetry, short stories, plays, travel writing and 13 novels.
"There are double words for everything: the word that swells, the word that belittles." From Stevenson's The Master of Ballantrae (1889)
Many people only know his most popular novels, “Treasure Island,” published in 1883, and “Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,” published in 1886, but he was nothing if not prolific in his writing. Stevenson's travel memoir of his honeymoon in the Napa Valley, “The Silverado Squatters,” tells us of his meetings with vintners and his encounters with interesting folks who lived in the valley then. “Silverado Squatters” is also the origin of the phrase “and the wine is bottled poetry” that adorns the popular Napa Valley photo-op sign. In a visit to the museum you can learn the entire quotation. His popular poetry includes “A Child's Garden of Verses.” This poetry book of 66 poems published in 1885 for children was inspired by his joy of childhood pleasures and imaginings such as swinging, sailing boats, visiting far-away lands and more.
Quote from Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island: "Fifteen men on the dead man's chest. Yo-ho-ho, and a bottle of rum!"
Many of the art pieces in the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum are old and quite fragile, so they are not currently on public display. Donations to the museum help in professional restoration fees for these pieces. Other pieces are rotated into view for the public. The museum has works that were owned by Stevenson and also those that were painted by friends and colleagues, such as Virgil Williams.
“Please note that while we do have a collection of artwork, the museum’s primary focus is on the life, work and times of Robert Louis Stevenson,” Dahl said. “Accordingly, our exhibitions center on this theme. The artwork in our collection serves as an educational aid to help illustrate the historical context of Stevenson’s era rather than being a central focus itself."
He continued, "If you want more information about our fine-art collection, you can find a list of our most prominent artists on our website. There are a few other links on our page, including one to our digital archive, as well."
The online archive is a work in progress, so not all materials are uploaded at this time.
On Dec. 14, 1969, the RLSM opened to the public. That was thanks to Norman H. and Charlotte Strouse for the realization of their dream of the museum. Since they were avid collectors and passionate about Stevenson's works, they made a gift of their personal Stevenson collection of hundreds of items after retiring to St. Helena and created a foundation to fund the museum. The museum collections have grown over time to become internationally important, and people across the world come here to visit and research Stevenson because they have a window into his remarkable life.
Some other cultural opportunities where you can keep you cool this summer include some of my favorite haunts. The Napa Valley Museum Yountville's exhibit titled “Sophie Alstrom Mitchell: Wildflowers of the Napa Valley” is a must-see that runs until Sept. 28. This exhibit is a vehicle for the superb botanical watercolor paintings of a 19th-century Napa Valley artist. The Mitchell exhibit, as well as their permanent collections — “Land and People of the Napa Valley” and “Veterans Home History” are engrossing. You will learn about the geology of the Napa Valley, Native people, hot springs, the Chinese and Jewish citizens of Napa Valley and so much more. Also, there is much to love about the museum's revolving local artist displays and superb gift shop.
Farther afield are the amazing exhibits at the De Young Museum in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park. The Matissse and Paul McCartney exhibits there are engrossing, as are their collections of Chihuly glasswork and other works from around the world. The always-enriching Grace Hudson Museum in Ukiah contains the paintings of nationally known artist Grace Hudson (1865-1937) that respectfully depict the beauty of the Pomo people who were her neighbors. Also showing there is “The Art of Wonder,” created by a constellation of talented Mendocino County artists. The museum is a cultural and educational resource with its holdings of Pomo Indian baskets and artifacts.
Lakeport's historic Courthouse Museum's contains old-time artifacts along with an exhibit of "Abuelita's Kitchen: Mexican Food Stories.” The museum is open while undergoing renovations of the Native People room.
Another museum visit that you will enjoy is The Napa County Historical Society exhibit “The Valley Beautiful: Music,” which surveys the heritage and history of Napa Valley via music. From festivals to education, the exhibit celebrates the valley's rich cultural legacy, past and present. It runs until Sept. 20.
All of these museums provide delightful educational opportunities. Your education will also continue if you also pick up a book or two from any of the museums’ shops.
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Kathleen Scavone, M.A., retired educator, is a potter, freelance writer and author of “Anderson Marsh State Historic Park: A Walking History, Prehistory, Flora and Fauna Tour of a California State Park,” "People of the Water" and “Native Americans of Lake County.” She loves hiking, travel, photography and creating her single panel cartoon, “Rupert.”
Taking a Walk Through Your Neighborhood? Here’s What to Look for This Fall
By Aileen Carroll, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
NAPA VALLEY, Calif. – Late summer in Napa Valley is a time of change, when the long days of sunshine start to tip toward fall. If you take a slow walk through your neighborhood right now, you’ll find plenty of interesting sights in both cultivated gardens and vineyards. Some are beautiful but deceptive, others rare and worth pausing to admire, and many are simply joyful reminders of the season. Here are a few things to notice as you stroll this week.
At first glance, red grape leaves look stunning against the green backdrop of Napa’s hills. However, contrary to popular belief, grape leaves shouldn’t be turning red in the autumn. When they do, it’s usually a sign of trouble. Red coloration can point to nutrient deficiencies, water stress or even bacteria and viruses. Yellow is the color of healthy grape leaves in the fall.
While red adds beauty to the autumn landscape, it’s actually a grape’s distress signal. For grape-growers, this is a cue to take a closer look at soil health and vineyard management. For the casual observer, it’s a reminder that nature often cloaks its struggles in beauty.
All around the valley, sago palms are putting on a remarkable display. These plants, which are actually cycads rather than true palms, are what botanists call monocarpic. “Mono” means one, and “carpic” refers to fruit. Essentially, they flower once in their lifetime and then die.
Both male and female sago plants exist, with males producing large pollen cones and females forming a rounded flower structure that can catch pollen and eventually form seeds. This year, likely influenced by unusual weather patterns, sagos seem to be blooming in record numbers in Napa Valley.
While it might feel sad that the parent plant dies after flowering, there’s a silver lining: Sagos often produce offsets, or “pups,” at their base before they fade. These baby plants can be removed, replanted and grown into new sagos, continuing the cycle.
Other plants that share this monocarpic habit include agave, many aloes, certain species of bamboo, yucca and even some bromeliads. They live long, store energy, flower dramatically exactly once and then hand the torch to the next generation.
If you’ve noticed azaleas in bloom right now, you’re most likely looking at modern reblooming varieties. Traditional azaleas are known for their dramatic spring display, covering themselves in blossoms and then resting for the year. But plant breeders have developed new cultivars that flower two or even three times during the growing season.
Names like “Bloom-A-Thon,” “Encore” and “Perfecto Mundo” are worth remembering if you’d like to add these to your shady garden beds. Pruning azaleas is surprisingly easy, and these reblooming types benefit greatly from a light shearing after they finish a bloom cycle. If you have any azalea that is looking lanky, consider giving it a hard prune and some acid fertilizer. You can cut it back to naked sticks and still be delighted with the results.
Few plants capture the cheerful spirit of late summer quite like sunflowers. Right now they are at their peak, lifting their golden faces high or perhaps flopping over and reaching back up like mine are. One of their most charming habits is heliotropism: the ability to follow the sun as it moves across the sky.
Young sunflowers often track the sun’s path from east to west during the day, then reset overnight to face east again by morning. Mature flowers tend to settle facing east, which warms them earlier in the day and attracts more pollinators. I recently harvested some young flower heads from a sunflower I’m growing that produces many flowers on one stalk. Trimmed up and fried in a pan, they are every bit as good as artichokes.
Roses, if fed and cared for, are likely still producing beautiful blooms right now. It’s not too late for you to encourage one last flush of flowers before fall sets in. A light application of fertilizer paired with consistent watering can give roses the energy they need for a strong final showing.
Keep an eye out for rose leaves with neat half-moon shapes cut from their edges. Roses, redbuds, bougainvillea and many other plants may show this curious pattern right now. It’s the work of California native leafcutter bees, which trim pieces of leaves to line their underground nests. Unlike European honeybees, leafcutters are solitary and don’t produce honey, but they are excellent pollinators and relatively harmless to your plants. Those small cutouts are actually a good sign: You’re sharing your garden with one of California’s most fascinating native pollinators.
Take a moment to notice these details. Plants are more than just plants — they tell stories of adaptation, survival and beauty. Whether you’re a gardener, a grower or simply someone who enjoys the landscape, now is a wonderful moment to pause and appreciate what nature is showing us in real time.
Events
Fall Faire: Join UC Master Gardeners of Napa County for the annual Fall Faire — “Where science fair meets carnival”— on Saturday, Sept. 20, from 1 to 4 p.m., at the UC Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Ave., Napa. Enjoy kid-friendly demonstrations and talks ranging from dehydrating produce to designing a pollinator-friendly garden, along with plenty of gardening advice. A plant sale will feature ornamental plants and seven varieties of winter vegetables, with all proceeds supporting Master Gardener programs. Event entry is free.
Library Talk: Join UC Master Gardeners of Napa County for a free talk on “Invasive Species: Your Knowledge is Your Key to Control” on Thursday, Oct. 2, from 7 to 8 p.m. via Zoom. Invasive species can be insects, plants, animals or pathogens. Learn how to keep invasive species from ruining your garden and California’s wildlife and native plant communities. Register to receive the Zoom link.
Become a Master Gardener Volunteer: UC Master Gardeners of Napa County is now accepting applications for the Class of 2026. Visit napamg.ucanr.edu for more information and register to attend a mandatory information session for applicants. Applications are due by 5 p.m. on Sept. 25.
Help Desk: The Master Gardener Help Desk is available to answer your garden questions on Mondays and Fridays from 10 a.m. until 1 p.m. at the University of California Cooperative Extension Office, 1710 Soscol Ave., Suite 4, Napa. Or send your questions to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. Include your name, address, phone number and a brief description of the problem. For best results attach a photo.
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Aileen Carroll is a UC Master Gardener of Napa County.
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Very interesting. Thank you. I have to go back and read again Stevenson’s writings.
Very interesting article but failed to mention the St. Helena Historical Society Heritage Center, located on Oak Avenue in the old Catholic School building. It is open the first Saturday of the month from noon to 4 PM.