Ciccio in Yountville: The reopening of a local treasure
By Tim Carl
When news broke that Ciccio in Yountville was reopening under new management, there was a mix of excitement and skepticism in the air. The seasoned professionals taking charge were none other than Christopher Kostow and his wife, Martina, renowned for their three-Michelin-star status, farm-to-table ethos and culinary artistry. However, doubts lingered. Would their high-end approach change the essence of Ciccio, known for its casual, comfort-food-driven, local hangout vibe? With these questions in mind I stepped into the newly reopened Ciccio last Monday. I was both curious and apprehensive.
During my meal and numerous conversations with fellow diners, I not only found reassurance but also rediscovered the true spirit of Ciccio. Everything I had loved about the restaurant was not only retained but enhanced. The casual and welcoming atmosphere, the focus on comforting dishes and the commitment to providing an exceptional experience were all preserved. And there was something more. Each dish had a delightful element that added a surprise and made the entire experience both familiar and fun. Ciccio was truly back.
While the Altamura family remains the owners, they have entrusted the day-to-day operations to the Kostows. The transition of power was made with the intention of maintaining the original Ciccio spirit while incorporating the Kostows' expertise and slight adjustments. The beloved favorites that patrons have cherished remain on the menu, including the famous brick-oven-fired pizzas, homemade pastas and the great Caesar salad. The bar continues to offer a variety of Negronis and Altamura wines, staying true to Ciccio's roots.
The Kostow Approach
The Kostows' influence in the Napa Valley culinary scene is significant. Christopher, renowned for his mastery at St. Helena's The Charter Oak, the three-Michelin-star Restaurant at Meadowood, and Loveski, the "Jew-ish" deli at Napa's Oxbow Public Market, is a force to be reckoned with. Martina, with her extensive marketing experience, plays a crucial role in all of their ventures. The couple plan to honor the Altamura family's legacy while infusing their culinary prowess into Ciccio's offerings.
While the final menu is evolving, the focus remains on traditional Italian comfort fare but with slight variations to create unique flavors. Fresh produce sourced from their large garden in St. Helena plays a significant role. The commitment to hyperlocal ingredients and honoring the Altamuras' dedication to the community remains at the forefront.
The restaurant is open for dinner seven days a week. They now accept reservations, which previously wasn't the case. However, walk-ins will still be accommodated at the bar and at a few tables out front, preserving the lively and spontaneous atmosphere for which Ciccio is known.
The extensive Negroni menu — a signature of Ciccio — has expanded. Beverage director Micah Clark has curated a selection of Negronis and spritzes that form the backbone of the cocktail lineup. The wine list features predominantly Italian wines with a few unique selections from around the world and — of course — a few familiar local wines, such as one of my favorite Napa Valley wines, Altamura's Nebbiolo.
A lively, humming and warm vibe
As I approached the revamped Ciccio, I was greeted by the familiar red-clapboard building with its iconic red exterior — the word "MARKET" painted boldly in white letters as a reminder of the building's rich history as an Italian market. Inside, the restaurant hummed with activity, clinking glasses, and people talking and laughing. The pulsating sounds of an 80's-themed soundtrack permeated the air, immersing the atmosphere in a captivating wave of nostalgia, effortlessly evoking the irresistible essence of a John Hughes film.
The interior has been refreshed but still retains the feeling of walking into a friend’s home, with rustic wooden tables and a small bar with comfortable leather stools that combine to create a charming and inviting space. Despite the slight updates, the overall vibe remained warm, welcoming and true to its roots.
The Kostows aimed to re-create the experience they had as regular diners with their family, and their dedication to preserving the feeling of coming home was evident. Their personal connection to the restaurant and its community was a driving force behind their commitment to maintaining Ciccio's essence.
The food
The menu, though featuring some new additions, stayed true to Ciccio's tradition of Italian comfort food. Christopher’s creative flair was reflected in subtle twists and fresh ingredients. The focus on seasonal produce was evident, as ingredients sourced from their own garden in St. Helena ensured a farm-to-table experience.
In the realm of new and surprising, the trout sashimi ($20) with a chunky caper rémoulade was stunning in its simple glory. The fresh buffalo mozzarella ($15) was accented with olive oil, crunchy purslane and salty sea beans (agretti or Monk's beard), making me wonder why every fresh mozzarella dish isn’t served this way.
The pizzas ($25 to $28) showcased a blend of classic and unconventional flavors. Traditional options such as pepperoni and sausage were available alongside unique combinations such as potato with leek confit, fontina cheese and caper salsa. Using the same sourdough starter as the Charter Oak, the pizzas boasted a Neapolitan style with an added textural crunch.
Other dishes on the menu delighted patrons with their innovative approach. A pork mezzelune pasta ($28) featured fermented kale and chilies, elevating the flavors with a tangy kick. The pork chop Milanese ($34) served with a side of preserved plum mostarda offered a delightful twist on a beloved classic. Black Cod 'Aqua Pazza,’ ($38), a dish of fish poached with clams, was enhanced with squash blossoms and basil, elevating its simplicity to new heights.
Next to the locally sourced Petaluma chicken ($36) with Calabrian chili “Aigredolci” on the menu was an image of a chili pepper — cute, sort of like an emoji on a text message from a friend. But beware! This emoji is a warning. Delicious though it might be, this dish is spicy and will make you glad there are sides of creamy polenta ($11) and plenty of Frank’s Negroni ($18) to quench the fire. Don’t get me wrong. The spiciness did not keep me from eating every last morsel of the dish. In fact, the very next day I pondered going back and getting an order to go.
When it was time for dessert, Christopher’s team’s creativity shone once again. A whipped mascarpone dish ($13) served with spiced-wine-cooked prunes paid homage to a beloved treat from Frankies 457 Spuntino in Brooklyn, New York. The combination of flavors and textures created a satisfying and memorable end to the meal.
Ciccio's beverage program continued to impress with an extensive selection of Negronis and spritzes. Negroni enthusiasts would find themselves spoiled for choice, while spritz lovers could indulge in unique variations, reminiscent of family-run trattorias in Venice. The predominantly Italian wine list featured carefully curated selections with a few esoteric choices to pique the interest of wine enthusiasts.
The future
As Ciccio reopened its doors, reservations quickly became a coveted ticket to an unforgettable dining experience. The capacity of 50 people, combined with the restaurant's reputation, make securing a table a challenge. Yet the Kostows remain committed to accommodating walk-ins, ensuring that the spontaneous and lively atmosphere that Ciccio has always been known for will still be accessible to all.
In the end, my skepticism was replaced with awe and appreciation. The rebirth of Ciccio under the stewardship of the Kostows brought forth a revitalized culinary haven that pays homage to its heritage while infusing it with fresh perspectives. The combination of familiar comfort and innovative flavors creates a dining experience that is both comforting and exciting. Ciccio has reclaimed its rightful place as a local gem, cherished by all who seek exceptional food in a warm and welcoming setting.
As I left that evening I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude: gratitude for the Altamura family for entrusting their beloved restaurant to the Kostows, gratitude for Christopher and Martina for their dedication to preserving Ciccio's spirit, and gratitude for the culinary delights that await future diners, including myself.
The reopening of Ciccio not only marked a new chapter in the restaurant's history but also represented the resilience and adaptability of the Napa Valley culinary scene. Despite the challenges faced in the past, Ciccio has emerged stronger and with a renewed passion for delivering exceptional dining experiences.
“It’s like coming home,” said Cathy Osgood, a Napa resident and longtime patron of Ciccio. “We were apprehensive, but now that we’ve been, we are relieved. It has retained everything that we loved about Ciccio — delicious food, familiar faces and the rare experience of often seeing three generations eating together — but it’s even more: a young new family taking over the reins while Frank and his family look on and smile.”
Ciccio is open daily, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., 6770 Washington St., Yountville. ciccionapavalley.com
Great story Tim! Your words and sentiments are as delicious as the food you so tantalizingly described!
Nurit