Calistoga's Old Faithful Geyser: from tourist trap to natural wonder
By Tim Carl
When Koray Sanli first visited Calistoga’s Old Faithful Geyser of California in the early 2000s, he was unsure of what to make of it. The rundown appearance and lackluster experience gave the impression of a typical tourist trap. However, Sanli saw the potential for transformation, recognizing the geyser as a natural treasure and a business opportunity with an enormous potential to educate.
Great minds think alike
Born in Izmir, Turkey, Sanli initially came to the United States in the 1980s to attend a design school in Los Angeles. His plan was to return to Turkey and work in his family's textile business. But that didn’t happen. Instead, he fell in love with California's climate, landscape and the burgeoning technology sector. He established his own company, Designation Intelligence, which specialized in designing itinerary kiosks for travel and tourism information. This venture eventually led him to explore the Napa Valley and visit the geyser.
"I knew that with the right care, the geyser could be elevated to its rightful place," he said. "Not only a destination where people come to view the geyser erupt but also a place where people might come to hang out, picnic, bring their families and learn about the fascinating geologic history of this region."
Sanli's perspective aligns with many others who have seen the geologic wonders of the area as both natural marvels and attractions that can captivate tourists and locals alike.
Calistoga, founded in 1859 as a health spa destination by millionaire Sam Brannan, acquired its name due to the slip of an inebriated Brannan's tongue when he tried to link the burgeoning new town with that of Saratoga, a popular natural hot springs and spa town located in New York. Reportedly Brannan mistakenly referred to it as "Calistoga of Sarafornia" instead of "Saratoga of California." The town's hot mineral waters and volcanic mud baths drew visitors, establishing a spa industry even before the nascent wine industry had gained its foothold.
Naturally occurring or not?
The exact origin of Calistoga's Old Faithful Geyser remains somewhat mysterious. The source of the geyser's heated water is believed to lie deep beneath the earth’s surface and be linked to past volcanic activity. Scientists speculate that the intense heat boils water underground, causing it to rise through an earthquake fault zone running along the upper Napa Valley. The underground system's composition, however, is not fully understood.
Historical records indicate instances when water wells were drilled and powerful geysers erupted, shooting steaming water into the air. A 2012 study titled "Mechanics of Old Faithful Geyser, Calistoga, California" in the journal of Geophysical Research Letters by M.L. Rudolph et al., stated that "[The Old Faithful Geyser of Calistoga] is an abandoned well, drilled in the late 1800s to an unknown depth, which at the time of our study erupted with a period of 4.6 minutes." The article provides no further details.
Sanli questions the notion that the geyser is a product of drilling. According to him, the National Geographic Society recognizes Calistoga's geyser as one of only three in the world that erupts regularly, alongside Yellowstone's Old Faithful and the Pohutu Geyser in New Zealand.
And Sanli might have a point. In "The Silverado Squatters" author Robert Louis Stevenson writes, “The whole neighborhood of Mount Saint Helena is full of sulfur and boiling springs. The Geysers are famous; they were the great health resort of the Indians before the coming of the whites. Lake County is dotted with spas; Hot Springs and White Sulphur Springs are the names of two stations on the Napa Valley railroad; and Calistoga itself seems to repose on a mere film above a boiling, subterranean lake.”
It is unclear if Stevenson is speaking about drilled geysers, the geysers of Lake County or Sonoma (Geyserville), or Calistoga’s Old Faithful Geyser.
Predicting earthquakes
Former geyser owner Olga Kolbek meticulously recorded the geyser's activity alongside Northern California seismic activities. Her observations revealed distinct changes in the geyser's behavior before significant earthquakes, serving as a seismic precursor. Research by the Carnegie Institute and the United States Geological Survey has confirmed the correlation between the geyser's activity and seismic events, with prolonged diminishment or cessation of the geyser's eruptions indicating an imminent earthquake within a 200-mile radius.
A steward of venerated soil
Today Calistoga's Old Faithful Geyser is being transformed. It has become a place that showcases the captivating geologic history of the region and enables visitors to immerse themselves in the grandeur of the erupting geyser and gain insight into the powerful forces that have shaped the region. The parklike compound provides opportunities for relaxation, recreation and wonder. Here visitors can picnic, play bocce ball, view Nigerian dwarf goats, walk barefoot to connect with the earth (“earthing”) under towering palms or learn about the area in the Geology Museum with its informative displays.
“This is a magical and singular place,” Sanli said. "It represents so much — the vast power of the earth, the ability to witness geothermal activity in action or to sit and ponder just how the past and present are helping to build the future. We, as a community, are so fortunate to have this in our backyard, and I am fortunate to be the steward of such a venerated, hallowed space where my family and I can breathe."
Calistoga's Old Faithful Geyser of California, the only active one in the Napa Valley, offers visitors a unique experience. It is located at 1299 Tubbs Lane, where Sanli and his team welcome guests daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Admission prices are $15 for adults, $9 for children ages 4-9 and $8 for locals. Yearly passes are available, and each ticket is valid for two days with unlimited in and out privileges. For more information, call 707-942-6463.
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what a great article. I lived in the Valley for about 10 years and never succeeded in being there to see the geyser at the right moment. I love the two day pass option. I’ll have to try again. Thank you Mr. Sanli, for making the area around the geyser enjoyable, and Tim Carl for telling us about it.