Top stories of 2023 #13: Gary's in St. Helena is closing
By Tim Carl
As 2023 draws to a close, we're dedicating the final two weeks to a retrospective countdown of the year's most-read stories. Spanning a broad spectrum of subjects, these pieces mirror the varied curiosities of our audience and pave the way for an exciting 2024. Join us as we revisit these highlights.
Original run date: July 20, 2023
ST. HELENA, Calif. — In early October 2019 the outlook seemed promising for Gary Fisch and his family as they embarked on their latest retail venture. Building on the success of their flourishing wine shops on the East Coast — operated under the banner of Gary's Wine & Marketplace, a New Jersey-based company established in 1987 — they had proven their ability to navigate through various challenges. From the tumultuous aftermath of the 9/11 terrorist attacks to the throes of the Great Recession and the ever-changing retail industry, their resilience had been tested time and again. Yet little did they know the formidable trials that awaited them.
Just a few days after opening their latest retail store in the former Dean & Deluca space south of St. Helena a series of unfortunate events unfolded. First the power went out. Then fires ravaged the area. And amidst the recovery efforts from these wildfires another crisis struck — the pandemic. As if that weren't enough, another fire emerged, followed by a war in eastern Europe.
All of these challenges culminated in a slowdown in tourism, exacerbated by a strong dollar and reduced travel from China. Despite these challenges, Fisch, his family and their dedicated team pressed on. They sought to build community collaboration, catered to their customers' needs with special deals and engaged in countless conversations to find a way to make it work.
But despite their best efforts, nothing seemed to go their way. Then in early 2023 an unpleasant smell began to waft from an unknown source beneath the building. The odor grew stronger over time, reaching a point where it became unbearable. It was the final straw.
"At some point, you just can't take that many body blows, and you need to figure out an exit strategy," Fisch said. "We have literally spent the last four years trying to survive, and every time we started to see some light, something else would happen."
Upon hearing the news, City of St. Helena Council Member Anna Chouteau expressed her heartbreak. She emphasized the city's efforts to create a more supportive environment for businesses such as Fisch’s, citing recent approvals of a hotel project, the completion of the Vine Trail and improved access to housing as measures that would benefit future enterprises.
For Fisch, however, it will be too little too late.
"This May was worse than last,” he said, “and then June was even worse than that.”
Foot traffic was one of the issues contributing to the store's struggle. Many locals had yet to discover Gary's as a destination beyond occasional purchases of sandwiches or bottles of wine, predominantly Burgundy, as Fisch himself admitted. Staffing was also a challenge, with employees often being lured away by higher-paying restaurants and wineries grappling with similar workforce issues.
The end of a dream
Fisch grew up in New Jersey, where his father worked as a liquor salesman. After earning a degree in political science, he temporarily joined his father's line of work to make some extra money while contemplating his career path. At the age of 21 he found himself enjoying sales. It was a trip to St. Helena, however, that sparked his passion for wine.
"When I came to the Napa Valley, I was amazed by its beauty," Fisch said. "But it was during my visit to the Louis M. Martini Winery in St. Helena, where I met Louis himself, that I realized wine is an agricultural product made by farmers. It blew me away."
Prior to that moment, Fisch had assumed all alcoholic beverages were produced in stills, like gin or whiskey. Learning about the agricultural process and craftsmanship behind winemaking fascinated him. He developed a taste for the flavors, aromas and stories associated with wine.
"That experience changed my life," he said.
Fisch returned home and told his employer that in addition to selling spirits he would become the "brand ambassador" for Louis Martini wine. Within a few years in 1987 he purchased his own wine shop. Despite facing a recession shortly after the shop's opening, Fisch tightened his belt and weathered the storm. In 2001 he opened his second store, just in time for the 9/11 attacks. However, he and his team were prepared, having learned how to keep costs low and provide special value to their customers. In 2008, at the start of the Great Recession, Fisch opened his third store.
During those years, Fisch became a familiar face among Napa Valley vintners, forging relationships with small, hard-to-find wine producers to bring their offerings to his customers back home. He and his wife, Liz, also cultivated strong ties with local businesses and charities, frequently making donations to various causes at auctions throughout the year.
In 2019, when Fisch learned of Dean & DeLuca's closure in St. Helena, he saw an opportunity. The location, just down the street from the beloved Louis Martini Winery, seemed like a dream come true. With their businesses thriving in New Jersey and their son recently promoted to CFO, Fisch and his wife decided to relocate to St. Helena for five months each year. They bought a house and began making plans.
Four years later they are making new plans — to return to New Jersey.
"We will always love this place — St. Helena and the Napa Valley," Fisch said. "We know how to survive major challenges, but surviving one catastrophe after another? It's impossible.”
On July 20 Fisch held one of the last — if not the last — locals’ nights at the St. Helena location. Throngs of people flocked to the store in a show of both support and deal-seeking, as 20% to 50% discounts were being offered. Fisch and his crew served local wines, charcuterie and slices of freshly baked bread.
“I wish this had happened sooner and more often,” said Nancy O’Connell, a local nursing student and former employee at Gary’s, gesturing toward the large crowd that had formed a long line at the register. “Because if it had, we probably wouldn’t be in this spot. Everybody loves Gary, and he has been such a big supporter of the Napa Valley community. It’s surprising that even with all of his experience and the customers who love him, he couldn’t make it work. I’m not sure what to make of this location. If Gary couldn’t … . It’s sad — a real loss for the community.”
The exact closing date of the store remains unclear, but Fisch expects it to be no later than mid-August. Until then customers can find discounts on wine and retail items.
Tim Carl is a Napa Valley-based photojournalist.